One piece folder for hemming garments

Abstract

A down type static folder is provided for folding the edge of a garment during hemming. The folder is mounted--such as by a pivot post and latch--in a specific predetermined position on an automatic sewing machine head. The static folder is preferably mounted in place of a conventional cloth plate on the sewing machine head. The static folder includes a plate with a tongue for holding the folded over edge of the garment in a specific relationship with respect to the needle of the sewing machine during hemming. The tongue is in very close proximity to the needle (e.g. 0.0012-0.0015 inches). A flared portion of the folder automatically opens up the blank after hemming. By utilizing the invention it is possible to provide a perfect blind stitch in a T-shirt sleeve or the like.

What is claimed is: 
     
       1. A down type static folder for folding the edge of a garment during hemming, in combination with an automatic sewing machine head having a needle, comprising: static plate means for effecting fold over of the edge of a garment brought into operative association therewith;   tongue means operatively connected to said plate means for holding the folded over edge of a garment in a predetermined spatial relationship with the needle of the automatic sewing machine during hemming of the garment edge by the sewing machine; and   means for mounting said static plate means and said tongue means in a specific predetermined relationship directly to said sewing machine head so that said tongue is in close proximity to said needle.   
     
     
       2. Apparatus as recited in claim 1 wherein said mounting means comprises means for mounting said tongue with a spacing of about 0.0012-0.0015 inches from said needle during hemming. 
     
     
       3. Apparatus as recited in claim 1 wherein said tongue means extends outwardly from the plane of said plate means to facilitate blind stitch formation. 
     
     
       4. Apparatus as recited in claim 1 wherein said plate means comprises first and second plates which sandwich a third plate therebetween, said first plate being the top plate and having said tongue means branching out therefrom. 
     
     
       5. Apparatus as recited in claim 4 wherein said tongue means curves outwardly from the plane of said first plate. 
     
     
       6. Apparatus as recited in claim 1 wherein said sewing machine head has a position for mounting a conventional cloth plate, and wherein said means for mounting said plate means mounts said plate means on said sewing machine head in place of said cloth plate. 
     
     
       7. Apparatus as recited in claim 6 wherein said means for mounting said plate means mounts said plate means on said sewing machine head so that said plate means may pivot with respect to said sewing machine, said means for mounting said plate being pivotally mounted at one end thereof to said sewing machine and further comprising releasable latch means spaced from said pivot and for latchably holding said plate means in a fixed position with respect to said sewing machine head. 
     
     
       8. Apparatus as recited in claim 2 further comprising adjustment means for adjusting the position of said tongue means with respect to said needle so as to provide more or less needle bite. 
     
     
       9. Apparatus as recited in claim 8 wherein said adjusting means comprises a screw having a cam thereon, and an elongated slot in said plate means for receipt of said screw. 
     
     
       10. Apparatus as recited in claim 1 wherein said static plate means comprises means for exposing the garment hem after stitching, so that the cloth may be readily acted upon in a subsequent operation. 
     
     
       11. Apparatus as recited in claim 1 further comprising conveyor means for conveying cloth through said static plate means to produce a blind stitched garment component from a garment blank. 
     
     
       12. A method of forming a perfect blind, permanently set stitch in a garment, utilizing an automatic sewing machine having a needle, and a static folder, comprising the steps of: (a) automatically conveying a garment blank, having a free edge, in a first direction, into operative association with the static folder;   (b) automatically effecting folding over of the garment free edge to forming a hem by the static folder acting on the garment conveyed into operative association therewith; and   (c) automatically stitching the folded over garment hem to permanently set it, and trimming excess material from the hem, while holding the hem in close tolerance to the needle of the automatic sewing machine, to provide a perfect blind stitch.   
     
     
       13. A method as recited in claim 12 wherein step (b) is practiced by providing the part to be hemmed so that it drapes downwardly. 
     
     
       14. A method as recited in claim 13 wherein the static folder includes a tongue disposed in a predetermined relationship with respect to the needle of the automatic sewing machine; and wherein step (c) is practiced in part by positioning the tongue so that it is spaced about 0.0012-0.0015 inches from the needle during hemming. 
     
     
       15. A method as recited in claim 12 comprising the further step of automatically opening up the garment blank after stitching so that the garment may be readily acted upon in a subsequent operation. 
     
     
       16. A static folder for folding the edge of a garment during hemming, comprising: a supporting channel;   a first plate mounted to said supporting channel, said first plate having tongue means operatively connected thereto for holding the folded edge of a garment in a predetermined position;   a second plate, including a pivot pin extending downwardly therefrom;   means for mounting said first plate to said second plate, and to said channel, so that said pivot pin extends downwardly from said second plate away from said first plate, in the direction toward said channel; and   means for providing adjustment of said tongue means with respect to said second plate.   
     
     
       17. Apparatus as recited in claim 16 wherein said adjustment means includes means for pivotally mounting said first plate to said second plate at a position spaced from said pivot pin; and means for pivoting said first plate with respect to said second plate about said pivot means. 
     
     
       18. Apparatus as recited in claim 17 wherein said pivoting means comprises a screw having a cam thereon and an elongated slot for receipt of said screw. 
     
     
       19. Apparatus as recited in claim 16 wherein said first plate, at a portion thereof close to said pivot pin of said second plate, is flared outwardly in a dimension perpendicular to the dimension of elongation of said pivot pin. 
     
     
       20. Apparatus as recited in claim 18 further comprising spring biasing means for holding said cam and screw in any position into which it has been moved.