Hem formation for automated garment manufacture

Abstract

A method and tooling for manufacturing flexible articles of manufacture such as garments, bags, backpacks and accessories that require hemmed edges. The method and tooling are compatible for use in an automated system and simplify the hemming process by performing the hemming operation on a flat pattern of material before the pattern of material has been joined with other patterns of material to form a finished or intermediate three-dimensional workpiece. This facilitates the formation of the hem by allowing the hem to be formed on a flat material pattern on a flat surface, thereby facilitating the folding, creasing and affixing of the hem without the requirement of human dexterity and labor.

What is claimed is: 
     
         1 . A method for constructing an article of manufacture, the method comprising:
 cutting a notch in a continuous web of material the continuous web of material being retrieved from a roll of material, the notch being configured to define a hem;   folding the notch of material and affixing the notch of material onto a portion of the continuous web of material to form the hem;   after forming the hem, forming one or more seams to join a first portion of the continuous web having the hem to a second portion of continuous web of material.   
     
     
         2 . The method as in  claim 1 , wherein forming a hem further comprises forming a crease and applying a bonding agent to the material to affix the notch of material to a portion of the flexible material. 
     
     
         3 . The method as in  claim 1 , wherein forming a hem further comprises forming a crease and sewing the notch of material to the portion of the continuous web of material. 
     
     
         4 . The method as in  claim 1 , wherein the forming a hem further comprises applying one or more of heat, steam, starch or size to the continuous web of material and applying physical pressure to form a crease. 
     
     
         5 . The method as in  claim 1 , wherein the continuous web of material is one or more of fabric, leather, vinyl and upholstery. 
     
     
         6 . The method as in  claim 1 , wherein joining the first portion of the continuous web of material to the second portion of continuous web material forms a garment. 
     
     
         7 . The method as in  claim 1 , wherein the wherein joining the first portion of the continuous web of material to the second portion of the continuous web material forms one or more of a garment, handbag, backpack or accessory. 
     
     
         8 . The method as in  claim 1 , wherein the affixing the notch of material onto a portion of the continuous web of material, further comprises depositing an adhesive and pressing the notch of material against the continuous web of material. 
     
     
         9 . A method for producing garments in an automated manufacturing process, the method comprising:
 defining first and second panels on a continuous web of fabric;   determining at least one location on the first or second panels for a hem to be formed;   cutting a notch in the continuous web of fabric at the location of the hem to be formed;   folding and affixing the cut portion to form the hem;   forming one or more seams to connect the first and second panels together; and   after forming the hem and forming the one or more seams, cutting the connected first and second panels from the continuous web of fabric to form a garment.   
     
     
         10 . The method as in  claim 9 , wherein a hem is formed on each of the first and second panels. 
     
     
         11 . The method as in  claim 9 , wherein the continuous web of fabric comprises one or more of, woven or knit textile, felt, leather, vinyl, and upholstery. 
     
     
         12 . The method as in  claim 9 , wherein the one or more seams are formed by depositing an adhesive and pressing the first and second panels together. 
     
     
         13 . The method as in  claim 9  wherein a notch cut corresponding to a neck hole curve of a front garment panel has a different radius of curvature from a notch cut corresponding to a neck hole curve of a rear garment panel. 
     
     
         14 . The method as in  claim 9  wherein a notch cut is formed as a single cut along a transverse line, including a shallow cut at a proximal and distal end of the cut in a direction approximately 90 degrees from the transverse line. 
     
     
         15 . The method as in  claim 9  wherein a seam corresponding to an edge of the first and second panels is cut to form a garment. 
     
     
         16 . The method as in  claim 9 , wherein the first and second panels are laid inside out on the continuous web of fabric. 
     
     
         17 . The method as in  claim 9 , notch cut forms a flap, the method further comprising blowing one or more of forced air and steam at the flap . 
     
     
         18 . The method as in  claim 9 , wherein the notch cut forms a flap that is folded to form the hem. 
     
     
         19 . The method as in  claim 18 , further comprising cutting slits in a flap of a curved hem . 
     
     
         20 . A tool for forming a hem in a flexible material comprising:
 a tool head having a flat base configured to fit under a piece of material and a back extending upward from the base;   an articulating mechanism for moving the tool head in multiple dimensions; and   a control system for controlling the articulating mechanism to slide the tool head under the material and fold the material.   
     
     
         21 . The folding tool as in  claim 20 , wherein the tooling head includes openings for supplying one or more of heat, steam, air, starch or size to the material. 
     
     
         22 . The folding tool as in  claim 20 , wherein the base of the tool head has a beveled edge to facilitate sliding the tool head under the material. 
     
     
         23 . The folding tool as in  claim 20 , wherein the articulating mechanism is configured to slide the tool head under a portion of the flexible material and also rotate the tooling head so as to bend, crease and press the piece of material.