Process for curl-relaxing and/or straightening keratin fibres, using reducing agents and polar organic solvents, and straightening kit

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for curl-relaxing and/or straightening keratin fibres, such as the hair, which comprises the application to the fibres of one or more compositions comprising reducing agents, one or more compositions comprising organic solvents and a step of heat treatment of the fibres by means of a heating tool.The invention also relates to the use of the composition(s) comprising reducing agents and of the composition(s) comprising organic solvents in a process for curl-relaxing and/or straightening keratin fibres.Finally, the invention relates to a multi-compartment device or “kit” that is suitable for performing such a process.

1 . A process for curl-relaxing and/or straightening keratin fibres, comprising:
 i) the application to said fibres of an acidic composition (A), having a pH between 1 and 5 inclusive and containing one or more thiol-based reducing agents;   ii) the application to said fibres of a distinct composition (B) containing one or more polar organic solvents; followed by   iii) a step of heat treatment of the fibres by means of a heating tool;   it being understood that steps i) and ii) are performed separately.   
     
     
         2 . The process according to  claim 1 , comprising a step o) of using a composition (C) containing one or more non-thiol-based reducing agents after step i) and/or ii) and before the heat treatment step iii). 
     
     
         3 . The process according to  claim 1 , characterized in that the thiol-based reducing agent(s) are chosen from those of formulae i-1 and i-2, and also the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, optical isomers thereof and tautomers thereof, and the solvates such as hydrates:
   R—SH  i-1
     R′—S—R″  i-2
   in which formulae i-1 and i-2:
 R represents
 a linear or branched (C 1 -C 8 )alkyl, 
 and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from —O—, —S—, —N(R′″)— wherein R′″ represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (C 1 -C 6 )alkyl group, C(O) or combinations thereof such as —O—C(O)—, —C(O)—O—, —N(R′″)—C(O)— or —C(O)—N(R′″)—; 
 a (hetero)aryl group optionally substituted in particular with one or more hydroxyl, thiol or carboxy groups; 
 
 R′ and R″, which may be identical or different, represent a (C 1 -C 8 )alkyl group, substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, thiol and carboxy; 
   or else R′ and R″ form, together with the sulfur atom which bears them, a 5- to 7-membered heterocyclic group, which comprises from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, and which is optionally substituted.   
     
     
         4 . The process according to  claim 3 , characterized in that the thiol-based reducing agent(s) are chosen from those of formula i-1, for which R represents a linear or branched (C 1 -C 8 )alkyl group, substituted with one or more groups chosen from carboxyl C(O)OH, amino, hydroxyl —OH, and thiol —SH;
 and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from —O—, —N(R′″)— wherein R′″ represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (C 1 -C 6 )alkyl group, C(O) or combinations thereof such as —O—C(O)—, —C(O)—O—, —N(R′″)—C(O)—, or —C(O)—N(R′″)—. 
 
     
     
         5 . The process according to  claim 3 , characterized in that the thiol-based reducing agent(s) are chosen from those of formula i-1, for which R represents:
 a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl, thiol or carboxy groups; or   a 5- to 10-membered bicyclic, heteroaryl, comprising from 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from 0, S or N, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl or thiol groups.   
     
     
         6 . The process according to  claim 3 , characterized in that the thiol-based reducing agent(s) are chosen from those of formula i-2, for which R′ and R″, which may be identical or different, represent a (C 1 -C 8 )alkyl group, substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, thiol, and carboxyl. 
     
     
         7 . The process according to  claim 1 , characterized in that the thiol-based reducing agent(s) are chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, and thioglycolic or thiolactic acid esters and amides. 
     
     
         8 . The process according to  claim 1 , characterized in that the polar organic solvent(s) are chosen from:
 (b1) monoalcohols comprising a hydroxyl group and a C 1 -C 6 ;   (b2) monoalcohols comprising a hydroxyl group and an aryl group;   (b3) polyols comprising from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups and a C 2 -C 8  alkyl group;   (b4) polyols comprising from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and an aryl group,   (b5) esters of C 1 -C 30  acids and of monoalcohols (b1), (b2) or of polyols (b3) or   (b4); these esters may be esters of carbonic acid, such as propylene carbonate;   (b6) ketones such as R—C(═O)—R′, with R and R′, which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 ; and   (b7) ethers such as R—O—R′ with R and R′ as defined previously.   
     
     
         9 . The process according to  claim 8 , characterized in that the organic solvents are chosen from propylene glycol, glycerol and isopropyl myristate. 
     
     
         10 . The process according to  claim 2 , characterized in that the non-thiol-based reducing agent(s) are chosen from ortho-diphenol derivatives and the compounds of formula (I) 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         in which formula (I) the substituents:
 R 1  to R 4 , which may be identical or different, represent: 
 a hydrogen atom, 
 a halogen atom, 
 a hydroxyl radical, 
 a carboxyl radical, 
 an alkyl carboxylate or alkoxycarbonyl radical, 
 an optionally substituted amino radical, 
 an optionally substituted and linear or branched alkyl radical, 
 an optionally substituted and linear or branched alkenyl radical, 
 an optionally substituted cycloalkyl radical, 
 an alkoxy radical, 
 an alkoxyalkyl radical, 
 an alkoxyaryl radical, the aryl group possibly being optionally substituted, 
 an aryl radical, 
 a substituted aryl radical, 
 a saturated or unsaturated heterocyclic radical optionally bearing a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and/or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl or glycosyloxy groups, 
 a radical containing one or more silicon atoms, 
 or two of the substituents borne by two adjacent carbon atoms R 1 -R 2 , R 2 -R 3  or R 3 -R 4  form, together with the carbon atoms bearing them, a saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic ring optionally containing one or more heteroatoms and optionally fused with one or more saturated or unsaturated rings optionally containing one or more heteroatoms. 
 
       
     
     
         11 . The process according to  claim 2 , characterized in that the non-thiol-based reducing agent(s) are chosen from meta-hydroxyphenol derivatives, the compounds of formula (II), and also the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates: 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         in which formula (II) the substituents:
 R 1 , R 2  and R 4 , which may be identical or different, represent: 
 a hydrogen atom, 
 a halogen atom, 
 a carboxyl radical, 
 an alkyl carboxylate or alkoxycarbonyl radical, 
 an optionally substituted amino radical, 
 an optionally substituted and linear or branched alkyl radical, 
 an optionally substituted and linear or branched alkenyl radical, 
 an optionally substituted cycloalkyl radical, 
 an alkylcarbonyl radical, 
 a carboxaldehyde radical, 
 an alkoxy radical, 
 an alkoxyalkyl radical, 
 an alkoxyaryl radical, the aryl group possibly being optionally substituted, 
 an arylalkylcarbonyl radical of which the aryl group, is optionally substituted, 
 an aryl radical, 
 a substituted aryl radical, 
 a saturated or unsaturated heterocyclic radical optionally bearing a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and/or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl or glycosyloxy groups, 
 a radical containing one or more silicon atoms, 
 R 3  represents: 
 a hydrogen atom, 
 a halogen atom, 
 a hydroxyl radical, 
 a carboxyl radical, 
 an alkyl carboxylate or alkoxycarbonyl radical, 
 an optionally substituted amino radical, 
 an optionally substituted and linear or branched alkyl radical, 
 a linear or branched alkenyl radical which is optionally substituted, in particular with a phenyl group, 
 an optionally substituted cycloalkyl radical, 
 an alkylcarbonyl radical, 
 a carboxaldehyde radical, 
 an alkoxy radical, 
 an alkoxyalkyl radical, 
 an alkoxyaryl radical, the aryl group possibly being optionally substituted, 
 an aryl radical, 
 a substituted aryl radical, 
 a saturated or unsaturated heterocyclic radical optionally bearing a cationic or anionic charge, optionally substituted and/or optionally fused with an aromatic ring, said aromatic ring being optionally substituted, with one or more hydroxyl or glycosyloxy groups, 
 a radical containing one or more silicon atoms, 
 or two of the substituents borne by two adjacent carbon atoms R 2 -R 3  or R 3 -R 4  form, together with the carbon atoms bearing them, a saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic ring, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms and optionally fused with one or more saturated or unsaturated rings optionally containing one or more heteroatoms; 
 
         particularly, R 1 , R 2  and R 4  represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (C 1 -C 6 )alkyl group, and/or R 3  represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (C 1 -C 6 )alkyl or (C 2 -C 6 )alkenyl group, such as ethenyl, optionally substituted with an aryl group, such as a phenyl group, which is optionally substituted, with one or more (di)(C 1 -C 4 )(alkyl)amino or hydroxyl groups; 
         more particularly, R 1 , R 2  and R 4  represent a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C 4 )alkyl group, and R 3  represents a hydrogen atom or an Ar—CH═CH— group with Ar representing an aryl group. 
       
     
     
         12 . The process according to  claim 10 , characterized in that the non-thiol-based reducing agent(s) are chosen from para-hydroxyphenol derivatives, the compounds of formula (III), the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and the solvates thereof such as hydrates: 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         in which formula (III) R 1  to R 4 , which may be identical or different, are as defined for formula (I). 
       
     
     
         13 . The process according to  claim 1 , characterized in that the non-thiol-based reducing agent(s) are chosen from catechol, gallic acid, para-hydroxyphenol and resveratrol, and mixtures thereof. 
     
     
         14 . The process according to  claim 1 , characterized in that the thiol-based reducing agent(s) represent from 0.02% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A). 
     
     
         15 . The process according to  claim 1 , characterized in that the organic solvent(s) represent from 30% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B). 
     
     
         16 . The process according to  claim 2 , characterized in that the non-thiol-based reducing agent(s) represents from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C). 
     
     
         17 . The process according to  claim 2 , characterized in that the weight ratio between the amount of thiol-based reducing agent(s) and the amount of non-thiol-based reducing agent(s) is between 0.01 and 10 inclusive. 
     
     
         18 . The process according to  claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises a step of rinsing the keratin fibres after step i) and/or step ii) and before the heat treatment step (iii). 
     
     
         19 . The process according to  claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises:
 i) the application to the fibres of a composition (A) comprising said thiol-based reducing agent(s), and then   ii) the application to the fibres of a composition (B) comprising said organic solvent(s),   an optional step of rinsing the fibres, and then   iii) a step of heat treatment of the fibres by means of a heating tool.   
     
     
         20 . The process according to  claim 19 , characterized in that it comprises, between steps i) and ii):
 o) the application to the fibres of a composition (C) comprising a non-thiol-based reducing agent(s).   
     
     
         21 . The process according to  claim 1 , characterized in that the heat treatment step iii) is performed by means of a heating tool chosen from a hairstyling hood, a straightening iron, a hairdryer and an infrared-ray dispenser. 
     
     
         22 . The process according to  claim 1 , characterized in that the heat treatment step is performed at a temperature ranging from 30 to 250° C. 
     
     
         23 . A kit comprising at least two compartments:
 a first compartment comprising an acidic composition (A) which comprises one or more thiol-based reducing agents, as defined in  claim 1 ,   a second compartment comprising a composition (B) which comprises one or more organic solvents, and   optionally a third compartment comprising a composition (C) which comprises one or more non-thiol-based reducing agents.