Composition for straightening keratin fibres, comprising a urea and/or a urea derivative and a nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or anionic associative polymeric thickener, process and use thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more compounds chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives, (b) one or more polymeric thickeners chosen from nonionic, cationic, amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners or anionic polymeric associative thickeners comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units. The invention also relates to the use of this composition for straightening keratin fibres. Finally, the invention relates to a process for straightening keratin fibres.

1 .- 20 . (canceled) 
     
     
         21 . A cosmetic composition comprising:
 (a) at least one compound chosen from urea or urea derivatives, present in at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and   (b) at least one polymeric thickener chosen from nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or anionic polymeric associative thickeners   wherein the anionic polymeric associative thickener comprises at least one acrylic or methacrylic unit.   
     
     
         22 . The composition according to  claim 21 , wherein the at least one compound is chosen from the compounds represented by formula (I) or (II) below, or their salts or hydrates thereof: 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         wherein:
 R1, R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from: 
 
         (i) a hydrogen atom or 
         (ii) a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, C 1 -C 5  lower alkyl or alkenyl radical, a C 1 -C 5  alkoxy radical, a C 6 -C 18  aryl radical, or a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; optionally substituted with at least one radical chosen from hydroxyl, (di)(C 1 -C 4 )(alkyl)amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C 6 -C 18  aryl, carboxamide, or N-methylcarboxamide;
 with the proviso that when R1, R2 and R3 are each a hydrogen atom, R4 may be a radical chosen from carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (C 1 -C 6 )alkylcarbonyl,acetyl, (C 1 -C 6 )alkoxycarbonyl, methoxycarbonyl, ethoxycarbonyl, —CO—CH═CH—COOH, phenyl optionally substituted with a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl, benzyl, or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl; 
 with the proviso that when R1 and R3 are each a hydrogen atom, R2 may be chosen from a hydrogen atom or methyl or ethyl radical, and R4 may be an acetyl radical; 
 with the proviso that when R1 and R2 are each a hydrogen atom, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole, or maleimide ring; 
 R1 and R2 and also R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, an imidazole ring; 
 R5 and R6, independently of each other, are chosen from: 
 
         (iii) a hydrogen atom or 
         (iv) a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, C 1 -C 5  lower alkyl, acyl or alkenyl radical, a C 1 -C 5  alkoxy radical, a C 6 -C 18  aryl radical, or a 5- to 8-membered heterocyclic radical; optionally substituted with at least one radical chosen from hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C 6 -C 18  aryl, carboxamide, or N-methylcarboxamide; and
 A is chosen from CH 2 —CH 2 , CH═CH, CH 2 —CO, CO—NH, CH═N, CO—CO, CHOH—CHOH, (HOOC)CH—CH, CHOH—CO, CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 , CH 2 —NH—CO, CH═C(CH 3 )—CO, NH—CO—NH, CH 2 —CH 2 —CO, CH 2 —N(CH 3 )—CH 2 , NH—CH 2 —NH, CO—CH(CH 3 )—CH 2 , CO—CH 2 —CO, CO—NH—CO, CO—CH(COOH)—CH 2 , CO—CH═C(COOH), CO—CH═C(CH 3 ), CO—C(NH 2 )═CH, CO—C(CH 3 )═N, CO—CH═CH, CO—CH═N, or CO—N═CH. 
 
       
     
     
         23 . The composition according to  claim 22 , wherein the at least one compound represented by formula (I) is chosen from:
 urea,   methylurea,   ethylurea,   propylurea,   n-butylurea,   sec-butylurea,   isobutylurea,   tert-butylurea,   cyclopentylurea,   ethoxyurea,   hydroxyethylurea,   N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea,   N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea,   N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea,   N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea,   1-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea,   benzylurea,   N-carbamoylmaleamide,   N-carbamoylmaleamic acid,   piperidinecarboxamide,   1,2,4-triazol-4-ylurea,   hydantoic acid,   methyl allophanate,   ethyl allophanate,   acetylurea,   hydroxyethyleneurea,   2-(hydroxyethyl)ethyleneurea,   diallylurea,   chloroethylurea,   N,N-dimethylurea,   N,N-diethylurea,   N,N-dipropylurea,   cyclopentyl-1-methylurea,   1,3-dimethylurea,   1,3-diethylurea,   1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)urea,   1,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea,   1,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea,   1,3-dipropylurea,   ethyl-3-propylurea,   sec-butyl-3-methylurea,   isobutyl-3-methylurea,   cyclopentyl-3-methylurea,   N-acetyl-N′-methylurea,   trimethylurea,   butyl-3,3-dimethylurea,   tetramethylurea, or   benzylurea.   
     
     
         24 . The composition according to  claim 22 , wherein the at least one compound represented by formula (II) is chosen from:
 parabanic acid,   1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2-one,   barbituric acid,   uracil,   1-methyluracil,   3-methyluracil,   5-methyluracil,   1,3-dimethyluracil,   5-azauracil,   6-azauracil,   5-fluorouracil,   6-fluorouracil,   1,3-dimethyl-5-fluorouracil,   5-am inouracil,   6-am inouracil,   6-amino-1-methyluracil,   6-amino-1,3-dimethyluracil,   4-chlorouracil,   5-chlorouracil,   5,6-dihydrouracil,   5,6-dihydro-5-methyluracil,   2-imidazolidone,   1-methyl-2-imidazolidinone,   1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone,   4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidin-2-one,   1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone,   1-(2-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone,   1-(3-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone,   4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethyl-imidazolidin-2-one,   1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone,   2-imidazolidone-4-carboxylic acid,   1-(2-aminoethyl)-2-imidazole,   4-methyl-1,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione,   2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine,   1-amino-4,5-dihydro-1H-tetrazol-5-one,   hydantoin,   1-methylhydantoin,   5-methylhydantoin,   5,5-dimethylhydantoin,   5-ethylhydantoin,   5-n-propylhydantoin,   5-ethyl-5-methylhydantoin,   5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin,   5-hydroxymethylhydantoin,   1-allylhydantoin,   1-aminohydantoin,   hydantoin-5-acetic acid,   4-amino-1,2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione,   hexahydro-1,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dione,   5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinon-2-one,   1-methyltetrahydropyrimidin-2-one,   2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine,   urazole,   4-methylurazole,   orotic acid,   dihydroxyorotic acid,   2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine,   2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine,   4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine,   barbituric acid,   1,3-dimethylbarbituric acid,   cyanuric acid,   1-methyl-hexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione,   1,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-1H-pyrimidinone,   5-(hydroxymethyl-2,4-(1H,3H)-pyrimidinedione,   2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid,   6-azathymine,   5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinan-2-one,   N-carbamoylmaleamic acid, and   alloxan monohydrate.   
     
     
         25 . The composition according to  claim 21 , wherein the at least one compound is chosen from urea or hydroxyethylurea. 
     
     
         26 . The composition according to  claim 21 , wherein the at least one compound is present in an amount ranging from about 2% to about 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 
     
     
         27 . The composition according to  claim 21 , wherein the at least one compound is present in an amount ranging from about 2% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 
     
     
         28 . The composition according to  claim 21 , wherein the at least one polymeric thickener is water-soluble or water-dispersible at a pH of 7 and at room temperature (25° C.). 
     
     
         29 . The composition according to  claim 21 , wherein the at least one polymeric thickener is chosen from:
 (i) nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit;   (ii) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit; or   (iii) amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.   
     
     
         30 . The composition according to  claim 21 , wherein the at least one polymeric thickener is chosen from nonionic or cationic associative thickening polymers, celluloses, and polyurethanes. 
     
     
         31 . The composition according to  claim 21 , wherein the at least one polymeric thickener is chosen from anionic polymeric associative thickeners comprising at least one acrylic or methacrylic unit. 
     
     
         32 . The composition according to  claim 31 , wherein the at least one polymeric thickener chosen from anionic polymeric associative thickeners comprises at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of (C 10 -C 30 )alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type. 
     
     
         33 . The composition according to  claim 32 , wherein the at least one polymeric thickener chosen from anionic polymeric associative thickener comprises:
 at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type represented by formula (VIII):   
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         wherein R 1  is chosen from H or CH 3 ; and 
         at least one hydrophobic unit of (C 10 -C 30 )alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type represented by formula (IX): 
       
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         wherein R 1  is chosen from H or CH 3  and R 2  is a C 10 -C 30  and alkyl radical. 
       
     
     
         34 . The composition according to  claim 31 , wherein the at least one polymeric thickener is chosen from those comprising at least one (meth)acrylic monomer bearing at least one sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized form, and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. 
     
     
         35 . The composition according to  claim 21 , wherein the at least one polymeric thickener is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 
     
     
         36 . The composition according to  claim 21 , further comprising at least one additional polymeric thickener. 
     
     
         37 . The composition according to  claim 21 , further comprising at least one surfactant. 
     
     
         38 . The composition according to  claim 21 , further comprising at least one fatty substance. 
     
     
         39 . A process for straightening keratin fibers, comprising:
 (i) applying to the keratin fibers a cosmetic composition comprising:
 (a) at least one compound chosen from urea or urea derivatives, present in at least 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and 
 (b) at least one polymeric thickener chosen from nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or anionic polymeric associative thickeners 
   wherein the anionic polymeric associative thickener comprises at least one acrylic or methacrylic unit; and   (ii) raising the temperature of the keratin fibers via a heating tool, to a temperature ranging from about 25 to about 250° C.   
     
     
         40 . The process according to  claim 39 , wherein the heating tool is an iron.