METHOD FOR STRAIGHTENING HUMAN HAIR FIBERS USING HEATING MEANS AND AN a-HYDROXY ACID DERIVATIVE

Abstract

The invention concerns a method for straightening keratinous fibers including: (i) a step of applying on the keratinous fibers a hair straightening composition containing at least one alpha-hydroxy and/or keto acid derivative, the pH of said composition being not more than 9 (ii) a step of increasing the temperature of the keratinous fibers, using heating means, to a temperature ranging between 110 and 250° C.

1 - 14 . (canceled) 
     
     
         15 . A process for relaxing human hair fibers, comprising:
 applying to the hair fibers a hair-relaxing composition comprising at least one α-hydroxy acid derivative, wherein the pH of the composition is less than or equal to 7, and   heating the hair fibers to a temperature ranging from 110° C. to 250°.   
     
     
         16 . A process according to  claim 15 , wherein the hair fibers are heated to a temperature ranging from 120° C. to 220° C. 
     
     
         17 . A process according to  claim 16 , wherein the hair fibers are heated to a temperature ranging from 140° C. to 220° C. 
     
     
         18 . The process according to  claim 15 , wherein the composition is applied to wet hair fibers. 
     
     
         19 . The process according to  claim 15 , wherein the hair fibers are partially predried. 
     
     
         20 . The process according to  claim 15 , wherein the molar concentration of the at least one α-hydroxy acid derivative is from 2 to 8 M. 
     
     
         21 . The process according to  claim 20 , wherein the molar concentration of the at least one α-hydroxy acid derivative is from 4 to 8 M. 
     
     
         22 . The process according to  claim 15 , wherein the at least one α-hydroxy acid derivative is chosen from compounds of formula (I): 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
       
       wherein
 R is chosen from OH and NR 3 R 4 , wherein R 3  and R 4  are independently chosen from hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 4  alkyl optionally substituted with at least one OH radical; 
 R 1  is chosen from: H, OH, NH 2 , CH 2 —COOH, and a linear or branched C 1 -C 4  alkyl, and 
 R 2  is chosen from:
 H, 
 COOH, 
 CHOH—COOH, 
 CF 3 , 
 CH═CH 2 , 
 NHCONH 2 , 
 a linear, branched or cyclic C 1 -C 8  alkyl optionally substituted with a radical chosen from OH, Cl, NH 2 , COOH, CF 3 , and SCH 3 ; and 
 a phenyl and benzyl optionally substituted with one OH or OCH 3  radical; or substituted with the radical 
 
 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
       
       or
 R 1  and R 2  optionally are taken together to form an oxo radical (═O) or a cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, hydroxycyclobutyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl ring with the carbon atom that bears them, or the radical 
 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
       
       provided that when R 1  is H, then R 2  may also be chosen from a (CHOH) 2 CH 2 OH and (CHOH) 3 CH 2 OH radical, 
       and the stereoisomers and organic or mineral salts and solvates thereof. 
     
     
         23 . The process according to  claim 23 , wherein the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from:
 oxalic acid,   lactic acid,   1-hydroxy-1-cyclopropanecarboxylic acid,   2-hydroxy-3-butenoic acid,   2-hydroxyisobutyric acid,   2-hydroxy-n-butyric acid,   isoserine,   glyceric acid,   2-hydroxy-3-methylbutyric acid,   2-hydroxy-2-methylbutyric acid,   2-hydroxyvaleric acid,   4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid,   1-hydroxycyclohexanecarboxylic acid,   dihydroxyfumaric acid,   citramalic acid,   tartaric acid,   citric acid,   2-hydroxy-4-(methylthio)butyric acid,   mandelic acid,   2-hydroxy-3-methylvaleric acid,   glyoxylurea,   β-imidazolelactic acid,   2-trifluoromethyl-2-hydroxypropionic acid,   hexahydromandelic acid,   2-hydroxyoctanoic acid,   arabic acid,   3-phenylactic acid,   hydroxyphenylglycine,   3-hydroxymandelic acid,   4-hydroxymandelic acid,   2-hydroxynonanoic acid,   L-arginic acid,   3-methoxymandelic acid,   4-methoxymandelic acid,   3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid,   tartronic acid,   tartaric acid,   β-chloroacetic acid,   1-cyclopentanol-1-carboxylic acid,   1,2-dihydroxycyclobutanecarboxylic acid,   2-ethyl-2-hydroxybutyric acid,   α-hydroxyisocaproic acid,   α-hydroxycaproic acid,   2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutyric acid,   malic acid,   hydroxytartronic acid,   gluconic acid,   lactamide,   N-methyllactamide,   N-ethyllactamide,   N,N-dimethyllactamide,   N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide,   and the stereoisomers and organic or mineral salts and solvates thereof.   
     
     
         24 . The process according to  claim 24 , wherein the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from:
 oxalic acid,   L-lactic acid,   DL-lactic acid,   D-lactic acid,   malic acid   tartaric acid,   DL-glyceric acid,   arabic acid,   gluconic acid,   hydroxytartronic acid,   lactamide,   N-methyllactamide,   N-ethyllactamide,   N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide.   
     
     
         25 . A kit comprising at least:
 a heating apparatus that provides a temperature ranging from 110° C. to 250° C.,   at least one hair-relaxing composition comprising at least one α-hydroxy acid derivative, wherein the pH of the at least one composition is less than or equal to 7.   
     
     
         26 . A kit according to  claim 25 , wherein the hair-relaxing composition comprises at least one α-hydroxy acid derivative chosen from:
 oxalic acid, 
 lactic acid, 
 1-hydroxy-1-cyclopropanecarboxylic acid, 
 2-hydroxy-3-butenoic acid, 
 2-hydroxyisobutyric acid, 
 2-hydroxy-n-butyric acid, 
 isoserine, 
 glyceric acid, 
 2-hydroxy-3-methylbutyric acid, 
 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutyric acid, 
 2-hydroxyvaleric acid, 
 4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid, 
 1-hydroxycyclohexanecarboxylic acid, 
 dihydroxyfumaric acid, 
 citramalic acid, 
 tartaric acid, 
 citric acid, 
 2-hydroxy-4-(methylthio)butyric acid, 
 mandelic acid, 
 2-hydroxy-3-methylvaleric acid, 
 glyoxylurea, 
 β-imidazolelactic acid, 
 2-trifluoromethyl-2-hydroxypropionic acid, 
 hexahydromandelic acid, 
 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 
 arabic acid, 
 3-phenylactic acid, 
 hydroxyphenylglycine, 
 3-hydroxymandelic acid, 
 4-hydroxymandelic acid, 
 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 
 L-arginic acid, 
 3-methoxymandelic acid, 
 4-methoxymandelic acid, 
 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid, 
 tartronic acid, 
 tartaric acid, 
 β-chloroacetic acid, 
 1-cyclopentanol-1-carboxylic acid, 
 1,2-dihydroxycyclobutanecarboxylic acid, 
 2-ethyl-2-hydroxybutyric acid, 
 α-hydroxyisocaproic acid, 
 α-hydroxycaproic acid, 
 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutyric acid, 
 malic acid, 
 hydroxytartronic acid, 
 gluconic acid, 
 lactamide, 
 N-methyllactamide, 
 N-ethyllactamide, 
 N,N-dimethyllactamide, and 
 N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide, 
 stereoisomers and organic or mineral salts and solvates thereof, 
 or mixtures thereof. 
 
     
     
         27 . The process according to  claim 22 , wherein:
 R is OH;   R 1  is chosen from: H, OH, CH 2 —COOH, and a linear or branched C 1 -C 4  alkyl;   R 2  is chosen from: H, COOH, CHOH—COOH, and a linear, branched or cyclic C 1 -C 8  alkyl optionally substituted with a radical chosen from OH, NH 2 , and COOH.   
     
     
         28 . The process according to  claim 27 , wherein:
 R is OH;   R 1  is chosen from H and OH;   R 2  is chosen from H and a linear, branched, or cyclic C 1 -C 8  alkyl radical.   
     
     
         29 . The process according to  claim 24 , wherein the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from:
 oxalic acid,   lactic acid,   malic acid,   tartaric acid,   tartronic acid,   gluconic acid,   citric acid,   2-hydroxyisobutyric acid,   4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid,   α-hydroxycaproic acid,   and the stereoisomers, organic or mineral salts and solvates thereof.   
     
     
         30 . The process according to  claim 29 , wherein the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from:
 lactic acid, and   α-hydroxycaproic acid.