Apparatus and method for reducing torque in garments

Abstract

A method of reducing torque in garments includes calculating a needle wale skew measurement for the fabric. A knitting machine can orient fabric along its negligible torque line. The knitting machine includes a cylinder having a plurality of needles for knitting the fabric, a take-down component for pulling the fabric from the cylinder, and the knitting machine is adapted for rotating the take-down component at a predetermined rotation ratio relative to rotation of the cylinder. The predetermined rotation ratio can be calculated using the needle wale skew measurement.

What is claimed is: 
     
         1 . A method of producing a fabric having a desired torque comprising:
 (a) calculating a needle wale skew measurement for the fabric to be produced;   (b) measuring torque by non-destructive testing means;   (c) providing a knitting machine comprising a cylinder having a plurality of needles for knitting the fabric and a take-down component for pulling the fabric from the cylinder, and wherein the knitting machine is adapted for rotating the take-down component at a predetermined rotation ratio relative to rotation of the cylinder; and   (d) calculating the predetermined rotation ratio based on the needle wale skew measurement.   
     
     
         2 . The method of  claim 1 , wherein the step of calculating the needle skew measurement comprises determining a number of needle wales that run off a longitudinal side edge of the fabric within a predetermined length of the fabric. 
     
     
         3 . The method of  claim 2 , wherein the step of calculating the needle skew measurement comprises washing and drying the fabric prior to determining a number of needle wales that run off a longitudinal side edge of the fabric within a predetermined length of the fabric. 
     
     
         4 . The method of  claim 2 , wherein the predetermined length of fabric is the range of one to six inches. 
     
     
         5 . The method of  claim 1 , further comprising the step of rotating the take-down component and the cylinder at the predetermined rotation ratio. 
     
     
         6 . The method of  claim 1 , wherein the knitting machine comprises first and second variable speed motor drives, the first motor drive operatively connected to the cylinder, and the second motor drive operatively connected to the take-down component, and further wherein the motor drives are adapted to drive rotation of the cylinder and the take-down component at the predetermined rotation ratio. 
     
     
         7 . The method of  claim 6 , wherein the knitting machine comprises means for electronically programming the first motor drive and the second motor drive whereby the cylinder and the take-down component rotate at the predetermined rotation ratio. 
     
     
         8 . The method of  claim 6 , wherein the knitting machine further comprises an electronic encoder operatively connected to the cylinder and the take-down component, whereby the electronic encoder detects the rate of rotation of the cylinder, and adjusts the rate of rotation of the take-up component to maintain the cylinder and the take-down component at the predetermined rotation ratio. 
     
     
         9 . The method of  claim 6 , wherein the knitting machine comprises:
 (a) a roll-up component for receiving fabric from the take-down component and rolling the fabric up into a roll for transport; and   (b) a center driven take-up shaft positioned between the take-down and roll-up components.   
     
     
         10 . The method of  claim 1 , wherein the needle wale skew measurement comprises the number of needle wales of skew per linear inch of the fabric. 
     
     
         11 . The method of  claim 10 , wherein the step of calculating the predetermined rotation ratio comprises:
 (a) dividing a total number of needles on the cylinder by the needle wales of skew per linear inch of the fabric to yield a first quotient;   (b) dividing a total number of yarn feeds into the cylinder by a total number of courses per inch of the fabric to yield a second quotient;   (c) dividing the first quotient by the second quotient to yield a third quotient, said third quotient representing a number of cylinder rotations; and   (d) adding one to said number of cylinder rotations to yield a sum, said sum representing a number of take-down component rotations, wherein the number of cylinder rotations to the number of take-down component rotations provides the predetermined rotation ratio.   
     
     
         12 . The method of  claim 10 , wherein the step of calculating the predetermined rotation ratio comprises:
 (a) dividing a total number of needles on the cylinder by the needle wales of skew per linear inch of the fabric to yield a first quotient;   (b) dividing a total number of yarn feeds into the cylinder by a total number of courses per inch of the fabric to yield a second quotient;   (c) dividing the first quotient by the second quotient to yield a third quotient, said third quotient representing a number of cylinder rotations; and   (d) subtracting one from said number of cylinder rotations to yield a difference, said difference representing a number of take-down component rotations, wherein the number of cylinder rotations to the number of take-down component rotations provides the predetermined rotation ratio.   
     
     
         13 . The method of  claim 1 , further comprising the step of providing a water processing system comprising first and second moveable turn bars providing mechanical assistance in rotating the fabric clockwise or counter clockwise to orient the fabric to negligible torque. 
     
     
         14 . A method of making a garment comprising:
 (a) providing a piece of fabric;   (b) calculating a needle wale skew measurement for the fabric; and   (c) cutting the fabric in a substantially parallelogram shape based on the needle skew measurement of the fabric.   
     
     
         15 . The method of  claim 14 , wherein the piece of fabric comprises a front portion and a back portion, and further comprising the step of seaming the front portion and the back portion together. 
     
     
         16 . The method of  claim 15 , wherein the piece of fabric comprises first and second side seams that extend at an angle in relation to tubular side edges of the fabric that is equal to the natural torque in the fabric. 
     
     
         17 . The method of  claim 16 , further comprising the step of dyeing the fabric, wherein after the dyeing of the fabric the first and second side seams are substantially co-extensive with the tubular side edges of the fabric. 
     
     
         18 . The method of  claim 16 , further comprising the step of tumble drying the fabric, wherein after the tumble drying of the fabric the first and second side seams are substantially co-extensive with the tubular side edges of the fabric. 
     
     
         19 . A method of producing a fabric having a desired torque comprising:
 (a) providing a turntable and a sensor operatively connected to the turntable, wherein the sensor is adapted for sensing torsion in fabric on the turntable and comprises a computer processor device programmable to control the turntable to minimize torsion;   (b) calculating a needle wale skew measurement for the fabric to be produced; and   (c) programming the sensor based on the needle wale skew measurement for the fabric to be produced.   
     
     
         20 . The method of  claim 19 , wherein the sensor is programmed to maintain one to three turns of Z torsion throughout Z twist fabric, and one-half to three turns of S torsion throughout S twist fabric.