Process for straightening keratin fibres with a heating means and denaturing agents

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for straightening keratin fibres, comprising: (i) a step in which a straightening composition containing at least two denaturing agents is applied to the keratin fibres, (ii) a step in which the temperature of the keratin fibres is raised, using a heating means, to a temperature of between 110 and 250° C.

1 - 33 . (canceled) 
     
     
         34 . A process for relaxing keratin fibers, comprising:
 (i) applying to the keratin fibers a hair-relaxing composition comprising at least two denaturing agents, and   (ii) raising the temperature of the keratin fibers, using a heating means, to a temperature ranging from about 110 to about 250° C.   
     
     
         35 . A process according to  claim 34 , wherein the pH of the composition is less than about 7. 
     
     
         36 . A process according to  claim 34 , wherein the hair-relaxing composition comprises an overall concentration of denaturing agents ranging from about 2 M to about 8 M. 
     
     
         37 . A process according to  claim 34 , wherein the temperature is raised to a temperature ranging from about 140° C. to about 220° C. 
     
     
         38 . A process according to  claim 34 , wherein the molar mass of the denaturing agents ranges from about 40 to about 600 g/mol. 
     
     
         39 . A process according to  claim 34 , wherein the denaturing agents are chosen from ureas, guanidines, α-hydroxy acid and α-keto acid derivative, mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxylated aromatic derivatives, cyclic or linear amides, surfactants or detergents, amidines, thioureas, urethanes, alcohols, polyols, amine oxides, metal salts, sulfamides, carboxylic acids, amino acids, and nitrogenous heterocycles of the imidazole or triazole family. 
     
     
         40 . A process according to  claim 34 , wherein at least one of the denaturing agents is chosen from ureas. 
     
     
         41 . A process according to  claim 40 , wherein the ureas are chosen from ureas of formula (I): 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         wherein:
 R1, R2, R3 and R4 are independently chosen from:
 (a) hydrogen; and 
 (b) linear or branched C1-C4 lower alkyl and alkenyl radicals, optionally substituted with a radical chosen from hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, carboxamide, and N-methylcarboxamide radicals, 
 
 when R1, R2 and R3 are hydrogen, R4 may also denote a radical chosen from carboxamide; methoxy; ethoxy; 1,2,4-triazolyl; cyclopentyl; methoxy-carbonyl; ethoxycarbonyl; CO—CH═CH—COOH; phenyl optionally substituted with a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl radical; benzyl; and 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl radicals, 
 when R1 and R2 are hydrogen, R3 and R4 may also form, together with the nitrogen atom that bears them, a ring chosen from piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole, and maleimide rings, and 
 R1 and R2 and R3 and R4 may also form, together with the nitrogen atom that bears them, an imidazole ring. 
 
       
     
     
         42 . A process according to  claim 40 , wherein the ureas are chosen from ureas of formula (II): 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         wherein:
 R5 and R6 are independently chosen from:
 (a) hydrogen; and 
 (b) linear or branched C1-C4 lower alkyl radicals, optionally substituted with a radical chosen from hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, and carboxamide radicals, and 
 
 A is chosen from CH2-CH2, CH═CH, CH2-CO, CO—NH, CH═N, CO—CO, CHOH—CHOH, (HOOC)CH—CH, CHOH—CO, CH2-CH2-CH2, CH2-NH—CO, CH═C(CH3)-CO, NH—CO—NH, CH2-CH2-CO, CH2-N(CH3)-CH2, NH—CH2-NH, CO—CH(CH3)-CH2, CO—CH2-CO, CO—NH—CO, CO—CH(COOH)—CH2, CO—CH═C(COOH), CO—CH═C(CH3), CO—C(NH2)=CH, CO—C(CH3)=N, CO—CH═CH, CO—CH═N, and CO—N═CH radicals. 
 
       
     
     
         43 . A process according to  claim 34 , wherein at least one of the denaturing agents is a guanidine of formula (III): 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         wherein:
 R1, R2, R3, R4 and R5 are independently chosen from:
 (a) hydrogen; and 
 (b) linear or branched C1-C4 lower alkyl and alkenyl radicals, optionally substituted with one or two radicals chosen from hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, methoxy, ethoxy, carboxyl, carboxamide, N-methylcarboxamide, and So 3 H radicals, 
 
 when R1, R2, R3 and R4 are hydrogen, R5 may also denote a radical chosen from acetyl; chloracetyl; carboxamide; methoxy; ethoxy; 1,2,4-triazolyl; cyclopentyl; methoxycarbonyl; ethoxycarbonyl; CO—CH═CH—COOH; phenyl optionally substituted with a chlorine atom or a hydroxyl radical; benzyl; thiazolidone; benzimidazole; benzoxazole; benzothiazole; and C(═NH)—NR6R7 radicals, wherein R6 and R7 are independently chosen from hydrogen and linear or branched C1-C4 lower alkyl radicals, optionally substituted with one or two radicals chosen from hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, carboxamide, and N-methylcarboxamide radicals; or alternatively a phenyl radical, 
 when R1, R2 and R3 are hydrogen, R4 and R5 may also form, together with the nitrogen atom that bears them, a ring chosen from pyrrolidine, piperidine, pyrazole and 1,2,4-triazole rings optionally substituted with one or two radicals chosen from hydroxyl, amino and carboxyl radicals, and 
 when R1 and R2 are hydrogen and R4 is hydrogen or methyl, R3 and R5 may also together form a 5-membered ring optionally containing an oxo group 
 
         and the organic or mineral salts thereof. 
       
     
     
         44 . A process according to  claim 34 , wherein at least one of the denaturing agents is an α-hydroxy acid derivative of formula (IV): 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         wherein:
 R is chosen from OH and NR3R4, wherein R3 and R4 are independently chosen from hydrogen and linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radicals optionally substituted with one or two OH radicals; 
 R1 is chosen from H, OH, NH2, CH2-COOH, and linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radicals; 
 R2 is chosen from H, COOH, CHOH—COOH, CF3, CH═CH2, NHCONH2; linear, branched or cyclic C1-C8 alkyl radicals optionally substituted with a radical chosen from OH, Cl, NH2, COOH, CF3 and SCH3 radicals; phenyl and benzyl radicals optionally substituted with a radical chosen from OH and OCH3; or alternatively the following radical: 
 
       
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         
           R1 and R2 may optionally form together an oxo radical (═O) or a cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, hydroxycyclobutyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl ring with the carbon atom that bears them, or alternatively a radical of the following formula: 
         
       
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         and
 when R1 is H, R2 may also be chosen from (CHOH)2CH2OH and (CHOH)3CH2OH radicals, 
 
         and the stereoisomers, organic and mineral salts, and solvates thereof. 
       
     
     
         45 . A process according to  claim 34 , wherein at least one of the denaturing agents is an α-keto acid derivative of formula (V): 
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
         wherein R5 is chosen from COOH, linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radicals optionally substituted with a radical chosen from OH, COON and Br; phenyl and benzyl radicals optionally substituted with a radical chosen from OH and COOK indolyl radicals, and a radical of the following formula: 
       
       
         
           
           
               
               
           
         
       
       and the stereoisomers, organic and mineral salts and solvates thereof.