Bioactive botanical cosmetic compositions and processes for their production

Abstract

The present invention is directed to bioactive botanical cosmetic compositions derived from membrane and cell serum fractions of plant cell juice. The present invention also relates to the methods for preparing these bioactive botanical cosmetic compositions and the uses of these compositions in various cosmetic formulations and as topical skin cosmetic applications.

What is claimed: 
     
         1 . A bioactive botanical cosmetic composition comprising:
 a membrane fraction derived from cell juice extracted from a fresh plant biomass, said membrane fraction having antiproteolytic activity, cell growth inhibition activity, and/or both antiproteolytic and cell growth inhibition activities; and   a stabilizing agent, wherein said antiproteolytic activity is due to inhibition of at least one proteinase and said cell growth inhibition activity is due to inhibition of proliferation of at least one type of cell.   
     
     
         2 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 1 , wherein said stabilizing agent is selected from the group consisting of an emulsifier, a preservative, an antioxidant, a polymer matrix, and mixtures thereof. 
     
     
         3 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 1 , wherein said proteinase is selected from the group consisting of a serine proteinase and a matrix metalloproteinase. 
     
     
         4 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 3 , wherein said serine proteinase is neutrophil elastase. 
     
     
         5 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 3 , wherein said serine proteinase is trypsin inhibitor. 
     
     
         6 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 3 , wherein said matrix metalloproteinase is gelatinase B. 
     
     
         7 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 1 , wherein said bioactive botanical cosmetic composition has an antiproteolytic potency ranging from an IC 50  value of between about 0.1 and about 25.0 μg dry matter/ml, wherein said IC 50  value represents the concentration of dry matter contained in the membrane fraction required to achieve 50 percent inhibition of said proteinase. 
     
     
         8 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 1 , wherein said inhibition of said proteinase is reversible. 
     
     
         9 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 1 , wherein said cell growth inhibition activity has a potency ranging from an NRU 50  value of between about 25 and 500 μg dry matter/ml, wherein said NRU 50  value represents the concentration of dry matter in said membrane fraction required to reduce the viability of said type of cell to 50 percent. 
     
     
         10 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 1 , wherein said fresh plant biomass is plant tissue of plants selected from the group consisting of Asteraceae, Fabaceae, Lamiaceae, and Poaceae. 
     
     
         11 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 1 , wherein said fresh plant biomass is plant tissue of plants selected from the group consisting of  Calendula officinalis, Medicago sativa, Lavandula angustifolia, Salvia officinalis , and  Hordeum vulgare.    
     
     
         12 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 1 , wherein said membrane fraction is derived from flowers of  Calendula officinalis  or from leaf and stem tissue of  Salvia officinalis  and comprises between about 0.5 and about 90 weight percent of said bioactive botanical cosmetic composition. 
     
     
         13 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 12 , wherein said bioactive botanical cosmetic composition has the following physico-chemical values:
 a non-volatile residue value of between about 0.1 and 30 percent;   a specific gravity value of between about 0.5 and 2.0 g/cm 3 ;   a viscosity value of between about 300 and 50,000 cps; and   a pH value of between about 2.5 and 9.5.   
     
     
         14 . A bioactive botanical cosmetic formulation suitable for topical application to a mammal comprising:
 a cosmetically acceptable carrier, and   a cosmetically effective amount of the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 1 .   
     
     
         15 . The cosmetic formulation according to  claim 14 , wherein the cosmetically acceptable carrier is selected from the group consisting of a hydrophilic cream base, a hydrophilic lotion base, a hydrophilic surfactant base, a hydrophobic cream base, a hydrophobic lotion base, and hydrophobic surfactant base. 
     
     
         16 . The cosmetic formulation according to  claim 14 , wherein said bioactive botanical cosmetic composition is present in an amount ranging from between about 0.001 percent and about 90 percent of the total weight of the cosmetic formulation. 
     
     
         17 . A method for inhibiting anti-inflammatory activity in skin tissue of a mammal, comprising:
 applying to the skin tissue the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 1  in an amount effective to enhance the antiproteolytic activity in the skin tissue.   
     
     
         18 . A method for normalization of cell disorders in skin tissue of a mammal, comprising:
 applying to the skin tissue the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 1  in an amount effective to inhibit unwanted hyper-proliferation of skin cells.   
     
     
         19 . A method for preparing a bioactive botanical cosmetic composition, said method comprising:
 providing a plant cell juice, said plant cell juice having been extracted from a fresh plant biomass;   treating the plant cell juice under conditions effective to separate the plant cell juice into a membrane fraction and a cell juice supernatant; and   converting the membrane fraction under conditions effective to yield a stable bioactive botanical cosmetic composition exhibiting antiproteolytic, cell growth inhibition activity, and/or both antiproteolytic and cell growth inhibition activities, wherein said antiproteolytic activity is due to inhibition of at least one proteinase and said cell growth inhibition activity is due to inhibition of cell growth of at least one type of cell.   
     
     
         20 . The method according to  claim 19 , wherein said fresh plant biomass is plant tissue of plants selected from the group consisting of Asteraceae, Fabaceae, Lamiaceae, and Poaceae. 
     
     
         21 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 19 , wherein said fresh plant biomass is plant tissue of plants selected from the group consisting of  Calendula officinalis, Medicago sativa, Lavandula angustifolia, Salvia officinalis , and  Hordeum vulgare.    
     
     
         22 . The method according to  claim 19 , wherein said treating comprises:
 coagulating the plant cell juice to yield a coagulated cell juice mixture, and   separating coagulated cell juice mixture to yield a membrane fraction and a cell juice supernatant.   
     
     
         23 . The method according to  claim 22 , wherein said coagulating step comprises:
 destabilizing the cell juice to yield a coagulated cell juice mixture, wherein said destabilizing is achieved through temperature treatment, electro-membrane treatment, chemical treatment and/or their combination.   
     
     
         24 . The method according to  claim 23 , wherein said temperature treatment comprises:
 heating the cell juice extract to a treatment temperature required to induce quantitative coagulation of the membrane fraction, and   cooling the cell juice to a temperature effective to allow further quantitative separation of said membrane fraction from said cell juice supernatant.   
     
     
         25 . The method according to  claim 24 , wherein said treatment temperature is at 45 to 70 degrees Celsius. 
     
     
         26 . The method according to  claim 24 , wherein said cooling of the heated cell juice is at 30 to 45 degrees Celsius. 
     
     
         27 . The method according to  claim 24 , wherein said separating is carried out by filtration or centrifugation. 
     
     
         28 . The method according to  claim 19 , wherein said converting comprises:
 stabilizing the membrane fraction component;   mixing the membrane fraction component with a polymer matrix to yield a membrane fraction matrix; and   neutralizing the membrane fraction matrix to yield a bioactive botanical cosmetic ingredient having antiproteolytic activity, cell growth inhibition activity, or both antiproteolytic and cell growth inhibition activities, wherein said converting is performed prior to any aggregation of the membrane fraction.   
     
     
         29 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said stabilizing comprises:
 mixing a non-ionic emulsifier and at least one antioxidant with the membrane fraction to yield a stabilized membrane fraction component.   
     
     
         30 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said polymer matrix comprises at least one polymeric emulsifier and at least one preservative. 
     
     
         31 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said neutralizing comprises:
 adjusting the pH of the membrane fraction matrix to a range of between 2.5 and 6.5.   
     
     
         32 . A bioactive botanical cosmetic composition made by the method according to  claim 19 . 
     
     
         33 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 32 , wherein said antiproteolytic activity is indicated by the ability of the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition to inhibit the activity of a proteinase selected from the group consisting of a serine proteinase and a matrix metalloproteinase. 
     
     
         34 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said serine proteinase is neutrophil elastase. 
     
     
         35 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said serine proteinase is trypsin inhibitor. 
     
     
         36 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 33 , wherein said matrix metalloproteinase is gelatinase B. 
     
     
         37 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 32 , wherein said bioactive botanical cosmetic composition has an antiproteolytic potency ranging from an IC 50  value of between about 0.1 and about 25.0 μg dry matter/ml, wherein said IC 50  value represents the concentration of dry matter contained in the membrane fraction required to achieve 50 percent inhibition of said proteinase. 
     
     
         38 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 32 , wherein said antiproteolytic activity is reversible. 
     
     
         39 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 32 , wherein said bioactive botanical cosmetic composition has a cell growth inhibition potency ranging from an NRU 50  value of between about 25 and 500 μg dry matter/ml, said NRU 50  value representing the concentration of dry matter in said membrane fraction required to reduce the viability of said type of cell to 50 percent. 
     
     
         40 . A bioactive botanical cosmetic formulation, suitable for topical application to a mammal, comprising a cosmetically acceptable carrier and a cosmetically effective amount of the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 32 . 
     
     
         41 . The cosmetic formulation according to  claim 40 , wherein the cosmetically acceptable carrier is selected from the group consisting of a hydrophilic cream base, a hydrophilic lotion base, a hydrophilic surfactant base, a hydrophobic cream base, a hydrophobic lotion base, and a hydrophobic surfactant base. 
     
     
         42 . The cosmetic formulation according to  claim 40 , wherein said bioactive botanical cosmetic composition is present in an amount ranging from between about 0.001 percent and about 70 percent of the total weight of the cosmetic formulation. 
     
     
         43 . A method for inhibiting anti-inflammatory activity in skin tissue of a mammal comprising:
 applying to the skin tissue the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according  claim 32  in an amount effective to enhance the antiproteolytic activity in the skin tissue.   
     
     
         44 . A method for normalization of cell disorders in skin tissue of a mammal comprising:
 applying to the skin tissue the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 32  in an amount effective to inhibit unwanted hyper-proliferation of skin cells.   
     
     
         45 . A bioactive botanical cosmetic composition comprising the membrane fraction made by the method according to  claim 22 . 
     
     
         46 . A bioactive botanical cosmetic composition comprising:
 a cell serum fraction derived from cell juice extracted from a fresh plant biomass, said cell serum fraction having antioxidant activity, cell growth stimulation activity, and/or both antioxidant and cell growth stimulation activities; and   a stabilizing agent, wherein said cell growth stimulation activity is due to stimulation of proliferation of at least one type of cell.   
     
     
         47 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 46 , wherein said stabilizing agent is selected from the group consisting of a preservative and an antioxidant. 
     
     
         48 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 47 , wherein said preservative is selected from the group consisting of potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, sodium methyl paraben, and citric acid. 
     
     
         49 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 47 , wherein said antioxidant is sodium metabisulfite. 
     
     
         50 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 47 , wherein said antioxidant activity is selected from the group consisting of superoxide scavenging activity and neutrophil respiratory burst inhibitory activity. 
     
     
         51 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 46 , wherein said fresh plant biomass is plant tissue of plants selected from the group consisting of Asteraceae, Fabaceae, Lamiaceae, and Poaceae. 
     
     
         52 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 46 , wherein said cell serum fraction comprises between about 1 and about 10 weight percent of said bioactive botanical cosmetic composition. 
     
     
         53 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 52 , wherein said bioactive botanical cosmetic composition has a superoxide scavenging potency ranging from an ICR 50  value of between about 50 and about 190 μg of dry matter/ml, wherein said ICR 50  value represents the concentration of dry matter contained in the cell serum fraction required to inhibit 50 percent of cytochrome c reduction. 
     
     
         54 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 46 , wherein said cell serum fraction has a cell growth stimulation potency ranging from between about 1.0 and 125 μg of dry matter/ml. 
     
     
         55 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 54 , wherein said cell serum fraction has an NRU value of between about 110 and 190 percent, wherein said NRU value represents cell viability 
     
     
         56 . The bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 46 , wherein said bioactive botanical cosmetic composition has an ability to cause biphasic modulation of respiratory bursts from phorbol myristate acetate-stimulated neutrophils, in that said composition inhibits said respiratory bursts at between about 1.0 and 5.0 μg dry material/ml and stimulates said respiratory bursts at between about 20 and 180 μg dry material/ml. 
     
     
         57 . A bioactive botanical cosmetic formulation, suitable for topical application to a mammal, comprising a cosmetically acceptable carrier and a cosmetically effective amount of the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 46 . 
     
     
         58 . The cosmetic formulation according to  claim 57 , wherein the cosmetically acceptable carrier is selected from the group consisting of a hydrophilic cream base, a hydrophilic lotion base, a hydrophilic surfactant base, a hydrophobic cream base, a hydrophobic lotion base, and a hydrophobic surfactant base. 
     
     
         59 . The cosmetic formulation according to  claim 57 , wherein said bioactive botanical cosmetic composition is present in an amount ranging from between about 0.001 percent and about 95 percent of the total weight of the cosmetic formulation. 
     
     
         60 . A method for enhancing the antioxidant activity in skin tissue of a mammal comprising:
 applying to the skin tissue of the mammal the bioactive botanical cosmetic formulation according  claim 57  in an amount effective to increase the antioxidant activity in the skin tissue.   
     
     
         61 . A method for stimulation of cell proliferation in skin tissue of a mammal comprising:
 applying to the skin tissue of the mammal the bioactive botanical cosmetic formulation according  claim 57  in an amount effective to stimulate fibroblast proliferation in the skin tissue.   
     
     
         62 . A method for preparing a bioactive botanical cosmetic composition, said method comprising:
 providing a plant cell juice, said plant cell juice having been extracted from a fresh plant biomass;   treating the plant cell juice under conditions effective to separate the plant cell juice into a membrane fraction and a cell juice supernatant;   processing the cell juice supernatant under conditions effective to separate the cell juice supernatant into a cytoplasmic fraction and a cell serum fraction;   refining the cell serum fraction under conditions effective to yield a cell serum fraction filtrate; and   stabilizing the cell serum fraction filtrate under conditions effective to yield a stable bioactive botanical cosmetic composition exhibiting said antioxidant activity, cell growth stimulation activity, or both antioxidant and cell growth stimulation activities.   
     
     
         63 . The method according to  claim 62 , wherein said fresh plant biomass is plant tissue of plants selected from the group consisting of Asteraceae, Fabaceae, Lamiaceae, and Poaceae. 
     
     
         64 . The method according to  claim 62 , wherein said fresh plant biomass is plant tissue of plants selected from the group consisting of  Calendula officinalis, Medicago sativa, Lavandula angustifolia, Salvia officinalis , and  Hordeum vulgare.    
     
     
         65 . The method according to  claim 62 , wherein said treating comprises:
 coagulating the plant cell juice to yield a coagulated cell juice mixture, and   separating the coagulated cell juice to a membrane fraction and a cell juice supernatant.   
     
     
         66 . The method according to  claim 65 , wherein said coagulating comprises:
 destabilizing the plant cell juice to yield a coagulated cell juice mixture, wherein said destabilizing is achieved by heat treatment, electro-membrane treatment, chemical treatment, and/or their combination.   
     
     
         67 . The method according to  claim 66 , wherein said heat treatment comprises:
 heating the plant cell juice to a heat treatment temperature required to induce coagulation of the membrane fraction, and   cooling the heated cell juice to a temperature effective to permit quantitative separation of said membrane fraction from said cell juice supernatant.   
     
     
         68 . The method according to  claim 67 , wherein said heating is carried out at 45 to 70 degrees Celsius. 
     
     
         69 . The method according to  claim 67 , wherein said cooling is carried out at 30 to 45 degrees Celsius. 
     
     
         70 . The method according to  claim 65 , wherein said separating is carried out by filtration or centrifugation. 
     
     
         71 . The method according to  claim 62 , wherein said processing comprises:
 subjecting the cell juice supernatant to a cytoplasmic fraction precipitation step to yield a cytoplasm/cell serum mixture comprising the cytoplasmic fraction and the cell serum fraction, and   separating the cytoplasmic fraction from the cell serum fraction.   
     
     
         72 . The method according to  claim 71 , wherein said cytoplasmic fraction precipitation step is carried out by isoelectric titration, electrodialysis, and/or their combination. 
     
     
         73 . The method according to  claim 72 , wherein said isoelectric titration comprises:
 adjusting the pH of the cell juice supernatant to between about 2.5 and 6.5.   
     
     
         74 . The method according to  claim 71 , wherein said separating is carried out by filtration or centrifugation. 
     
     
         75 . The method according to  claim 62 , wherein said refining comprises:
 subjecting the cell serum fraction to a temperature treatment step to yield a coagulated cell serum fraction, and   clarifying the coagulated cell serum fraction to yield a cell serum fraction filtrate.   
     
     
         76 . The method according to  claim 75 , wherein said temperature treatment step comprises:
 heating the cell serum fraction to a heating temperature required to induce coagulation within the cell serum fraction, and   cooling the cell serum fraction to a temperature effective to allow further quantitative separation of said cell serum fraction filtrate.   
     
     
         77 . The method according to  claim 76 , wherein said heating temperature is at 80 to 95 degrees Celsius. 
     
     
         78 . The method according to  claim 76 , wherein said cooling is to a temperature of at least as low as about 15 degrees Celsius. 
     
     
         79 . The method according to  claim 75 , wherein said clarifying is carried out by filtration or centrifugation. 
     
     
         80 . The method according to  claim 79 , wherein said filtration comprises:
 vacuum filtrating the coagulated cell serum fraction to yield said cell serum fraction filtrate.   
     
     
         81 . The method according to  claim 62 , further comprising:
 adjusting the pH of the cell serum fraction to about 3.0 to 4.0 immediately prior to said refining.   
     
     
         82 . The method according to  claim 62 , wherein said stabilizing comprises:
 incubating said cell serum fraction filtrate in a mixture of at least one preservative and at least one antioxidant to yield the stable bioactive botanical cosmetic composition.   
     
     
         83 . The method according to  claim 82 , wherein said preservative is selected from the group consisting of potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, sodium methyl paraben, and citric acid. 
     
     
         84 . The method according to  claim 82 , wherein said antioxidant is sodium metabisulfite. 
     
     
         85 . A stable bioactive botanical cosmetic composition made by the method according to  claim 62 . 
     
     
         86 . The stable bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 85 , wherein said antioxidant activity is indicated by the ability of the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition to have a superoxide scavenging potency ranging from an ICR 50  value of between about 50 and about 190 μg dry matter/ml, wherein said ICR 50  value represents the concentration of dry matter contained in the cell serum fraction required to inhibit 50 percent of cytochrome c reduction. 
     
     
         87 . The stable bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 85 , wherein said antioxidant activity is indicated by the ability of the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition to inhibit neutrophil respiratory burst activity. 
     
     
         88 . The stable bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 85 , wherein said cell growth stimulation activity comprises a cell growth stimulation potency ranging from between about 1.0 and 125 μg of dry matter/ml and an NRU value of between about 110 and 190 percent, wherein said NRU value represents cell viability. 
     
     
         89 . A stable bioactive botanical cosmetic formulation suitable for topical application to a mammal, comprising a cosmetically acceptable carrier and a cosmetically effective amount of the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according to  claim 85 . 
     
     
         90 . The cosmetic formulation according to  claim 89 , wherein the cosmetically acceptable carrier is selected from the group consisting of a hydrophilic cream base, a hydrophilic lotion base, a hydrophilic surfactant base, a hydrophobic cream base, a hydrophobic lotion base, and a hydrophobic surfactant base. 
     
     
         91 . The cosmetic formulation according to  claim 89 , wherein said bioactive botanical cosmetic composition is present in an amount ranging from between about 0.001 percent and about 95 percent of the total weight of the cosmetic formulation. 
     
     
         92 . A method for enhancing the antioxidant activity in skin tissue of a mammal, said method comprising:
 applying to the skin tissue the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according  claim 85  in an amount effective to increase the antioxidant activity in the skin tissue.   
     
     
         93 . A method of stimulation of cell proliferation in skin tissue of a mammal, said method comprising:
 applying to the skin tissue the bioactive botanical cosmetic composition according  claim 85  in a amount effective to stimulate fibroblasts proliferation in the skin tissue.   
     
     
         94 . A bioactive botanical cosmetic composition comprising the cell serum fraction filtrate made by the method according to  claim 75 .