Apparatus and method for reducing torque in garments

Abstract

A method of reducing torque in garments includes calculating a needle wale skew measurement for the fabric. A knitting machine can orient fabric along its negligible torque line. The knitting machine includes a cylinder having a plurality of needles for knitting the fabric, a take-down component for pulling the fabric from the cylinder, and the knitting machine is adapted for rotating the take-down component at a predetermined rotation ratio relative to rotation of the cylinder. The predetermined rotation ratio can be calculated using the needle wale skew measurement. Torque can be accurately measured at all textile/apparel processes.

What is claimed is: 
     
         1 . A method of producing a fabric having a desired torque comprising:
 (a) calculating a needle wale skew measurement for the fabric to be produced;   (b) providing a knitting machine comprising a cylinder having a plurality of needles for knitting the fabric and a take-down component for pulling the fabric from the cylinder, and wherein the knitting machine is adapted for rotating the take-down component at a predetermined rotation ratio relative to rotation of the cylinder; and   (c) calculating the predetermined rotation ratio based on the needle wale skew measurement.   
     
     
         2 . The method of  claim 1 , wherein the step of calculating the needle skew measurement comprises determining a number of needle wales that run off a longitudinal side edge of the fabric within a predetermined length of the fabric. 
     
     
         3 . The method of  claim 2 , wherein the step of calculating the needle skew measurement comprises washing and drying the fabric prior to determining a number of needle wales that run off a longitudinal side edge of the fabric within a predetermined length of the fabric. 
     
     
         4 . The method of  claim 2 , wherein the predetermined length of fabric is in the range of one to six inches. 
     
     
         5 . The method of  claim 1 , further comprising the step of rotating the take-down component and the cylinder at the predetermined rotation ratio. 
     
     
         6 . The method of  claim 1 , wherein the knitting machine comprises first and second variable speed motor drives, the first motor drive operatively connected to the cylinder, and the second motor drive operatively connected to the take-down component, and further wherein the motor drives are adapted to drive rotation of the cylinder and the take-down component at the predetermined rotation ratio. 
     
     
         7 . The method of  claim 6 , wherein the knitting machine comprises means for electronically programming the first motor drive and the second motor drive whereby the cylinder and the take-down component rotate at the predetermined rotation ratio. 
     
     
         8 . The method of  claim 6 , wherein the knitting machine further comprises an electronic encoder operatively connected to the cylinder and the take-down component, whereby the electronic encoder detects the rate of rotation of the cylinder, and adjusts the rate of rotation of the take-up component to maintain the cylinder and the take-down component at the predetermined rotation ratio. 
     
     
         9 . The method of  claim 6 , wherein the knitting machine comprises a roll-up component for receiving fabric from the take-down component and rolling the fabric up into a roll for transport. 
     
     
         10 . The method of  claim 9 , wherein the knitting machine comprises a center driven take-up shaft positioned between the take-down and roll-up components. 
     
     
         11 . The method of  claim 1 , wherein the needle wale skew measurement comprises the number of needle wales of skew per linear inch of the fabric. 
     
     
         12 . The method of  claim 11 , wherein the step of calculating the predetermined rotation ratio comprises:
 (a) dividing a total number of needles on the cylinder by the needle wales of skew per linear inch of the fabric to yield a first quotient;   (b) dividing a total number of yarn feeds into the cylinder by a total number of courses per inch of the fabric to yield a second quotient;   (c) dividing the first quotient by the second quotient to yield a third quotient, said third quotient representing a number of cylinder rotations; and   (d) adding one to said number of cylinder rotations to yield a sum, said sum representing a number of take-down component rotations, wherein the number of cylinder rotations to the number of take-down component rotations provides the predetermined rotation ratio.   
     
     
         13 . The method of  claim 11 , wherein the step of calculating the predetermined rotation ratio comprises:
 (a) dividing a total number of needles on the cylinder by the needle wales of skew per linear inch of the fabric to yield a first quotient;   (b) dividing a total number of yarn feeds into the cylinder by a total number of courses per inch of the fabric to yield a second quotient;   (c) dividing the first quotient by the second quotient to yield a third quotient, said third quotient representing a number of cylinder rotations; and   (d) subtracting one from said number of cylinder rotations to yield a difference, said difference representing a number of take-down component rotations, wherein the number of cylinder rotations to the number of take-down component rotations provides the predetermined rotation ratio.   
     
     
         14 . The method of  claim 1 , further comprising providing a basket spreader comprising a pair of S-shaped members for spreading the fabric prior to wet processing. 
     
     
         15 . The method of  claim 1 , further comprising the step of providing a water processing system comprising first and second moveable turn bars adapted for rotating the fabric clockwise or counter clockwise to orient the fabric to negligible torque. 
     
     
         16 . The method of  claim 15 , wherein the water processing system comprises a pad for extracting water from the fabric, a prespreader, ring guiders, a de-twisting device, a wet box, and a turntable. 
     
     
         17 . A knitting machine comprising:
 (a) a rotatable cylinder having a plurality of needles for knitting the fabric;   (b) a take-up section comprising a rotatable take-down component for pulling the fabric from the cylinder; and   (c) the knitting machine adapted for rotating the take-down component at a predetermined rotation ratio relative to rotation of the cylinder wherein the take-down component rotates at a varying speed of the cylinder.   
     
     
         18 . The knitting machine of  claim 17 , further comprising first and second variable speed motor drives, the first motor drive operatively connected to the cylinder, and the second motor drive operatively connected to the take-down component, and further wherein the motor drives are adapted to drive rotation of the cylinder and the take-down component at the predetermined rotation ratio. 
     
     
         19 . The knitting machine of  claim 18 , further comprising means for electronically programming the first motor drive and the second motor drive whereby the cylinder and the take-down component rotate at the predetermined rotation ratio. 
     
     
         20 . The knitting machine of  claim 18 , wherein the knitting machine further comprises an electronic encoder operatively connected to the cylinder and the take-down component, whereby the electronic encoder detects the rate of rotation of the cylinder, and adjusts the rate of rotation of the take-up component to maintain the cylinder and the take-down component at the predetermined rotation ratio.