Surfactant Mixtures for Improving the Deposition of Active Substances and for Reducing the Skin Irritant Action

Abstract

A cosmetic or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation contains 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight of a phase A; 0.1% by weight to 50% by weight of an active substance; a detergent; and the remainder being water. The phase A is a mixture of 20% by weight to 90% by weight of a surfactant mixture of isethionates, acyl lactylates and one of alkyl glutamates and alkyl glucosides and 10% by weight to 80% by weight of water, alcohol, polyol or mixtures thereof. The phase A forms multilamellar vesicles. The cosmetic or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation is a clear product with the multilamellar vesicles of phase A having an average diameter of less than 100 nm.

1 . A cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation comprising:
 2% by weight to 20% by weight of a phase A;   0.1% by weight to 50% by weight of an active substance;   a detergent;   the remainder being water;   said phase A being a mixture of 20% by weight to 90% by weight of a surfactant mixture of isethionates, acyl lactylates and one of alkyl glutamates and alkyl glucosides and 10% by weight to 80% by weight of water, alcohol, polyol or mixtures thereof;   said phase A forming multilamellar vesicles; and   wherein the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation is a clear product comprising said multilamellar vesicles of said phase A, said multilamellar vesicles having an average diameter of less than 100 nm.   
     
     
         2 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said phase A contains at least 10% by weight of isethionates, at least 10% by weight acyl lactylates, and at least 10% by weight of one of alkyl glutamates and alkyl glucosides. 
     
     
         3 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 2 , wherein said active substance is selected from the group consisting of organic photoprotective filters, antidandruff active substances, keratolytics, antioxidants, salicylic acid, plant extracts, oils, waxes, and mixtures thereof. 
     
     
         4 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 2 , further comprising a preservative agent. 
     
     
         5 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 2 , wherein said isethionate is selected from the group consisting of ammonium cocoylisethionate, potassium cocoylisethionate, sodium cocoylisethionate, ammonium lauryl isethionates, potassium lauryl isethionates, and sodium lauryl isethionates. 
     
     
         6 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 2 , wherein said phase A comprises sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl glutamate. 
     
     
         7 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 2 , wherein said polyol is selected from the group consisting of mannose, glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol, and polyethylene glycol. 
     
     
         8 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 7 , wherein said polyol is contained in an amount of from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, based on the aqueous phase of the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation. 
     
     
         9 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 2 , wherein said phase A is composed of 30 parts by weight of sodium lauroyl lactylate, 15 parts by weight of sodium cocoyl isethionate, 30 parts by weight of sodium lauroyl glutamate and 25 parts by weight of water. 
     
     
         10 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said active substance is selected from the group consisting of silicone oils, silicone amines, ester oils, silicone waxes, natural waxes, epicatechin, epicatechin-3-gallate, epigallocatechin, epigallo-catechin-3-gallate, luteolin, apigenin, rutin, quercitin, fisetin, kaempherol, rhametin, genistein, daidzein, glycitein, prunetin, daphnetin, umbelliferone, emodin, resveratrol, oregonin, retinol, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, riboflavin, pyridoxine, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-11, etocrylene, octocrylene, PEG-25 PABA, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, methylene bisbenzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (2,2′-methylene bis{6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol}, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 2,4,6-trianilino-p-(carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, ethylhexyltriazone, avobenzone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, benzotriazoles, triazines, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-dimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridone, 2-aminoethanol, zinc pyrithion, and salicylic acid. 
     
     
         11 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said active substance is selected from fragrances and aromas originating from plant starting material of the group consisting of lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, geranium, patchouli, petit grain, anis, coriander, caraway, juniper, bergamot, lemon, orange, mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, angelica, costus, iris, calmus, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedar wood, rosewood, tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme, spruce, fir, pine, dwarf-pine, galvanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, and opoponax. 
     
     
         12 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said active substance is selected from fragrances and aromas originating from animal raw material of the group consisting of ambergris, musk, civet, and castoreum. 
     
     
         13 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said active substance is selected from the group isoeugenol, vanillin, hydroxycitronellal, citronellol, geranyl acetate, ionones and methylionones. 
     
     
         14 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said active substance is present in an amount from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight. 
     
     
         15 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said polyol is selected from the group consisting of mannose, glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol, and polyethylene glycol. 
     
     
         16 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 15 , wherein said polyol is contained in an amount of from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, based on the aqueous phase of the cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation. 
     
     
         17 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said phase A is composed of 30 parts by weight of sodium lauroyl lactylate, 15 parts by weight of sodium cocoyl isethionate, 30 parts by weight of sodium lauroyl glutamate and 25 parts by weight of water. 
     
     
         18 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said detergent is sodium lauryl ether sulfate; or betaine; or a mixture of sodium lauryl ether sulfate and betaine. 
     
     
         19 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , further comprising a preservative agent. 
     
     
         20 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said average diameter of said multilamellar vesicles is determined by transmission electron microscopy (TEM), TEM-freeze fracture technology, and/or optical microscopy using a polarization microscope. 
     
     
         21 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said isethionate is selected from the group consisting of ammonium cocoylisethionate, potassium cocoylisethionate, sodium cocoylisethionate, ammonium lauryl isethionates, potassium lauryl isethionates, and sodium lauryl isethionates. 
     
     
         22 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said phase A comprises sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl glutamate. 
     
     
         23 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 1 , wherein said active substance is selected from the group consisting of organic photoprotective filters, antidandruff active substances, keratolytics, antioxidants, salicylic acid, plant extracts, oils, waxes, and mixtures thereof. 
     
     
         24 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 23 , wherein said active substance is selected from the group consisting of silicone oils, silicone amines, ester oils, silicone waxes, natural waxes, epicatechin, epicatechin-3-gallate, epigallocatechin, epigallo-catechin-3-gallate, luteolin, apigenin, rutin, quercitin, fisetin, kaempherol, rhametin, genistein, daidzein, glycitein, prunetin, daphnetin, umbelliferone, emodin, resveratrol, oregonin, retinol, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, riboflavin, pyridoxine, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-11, etocrylene, octocrylene, PEG-25 PABA, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, methylene bisbenzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (2,2′-methylene bis{6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol}, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 2,4,6-trianilino-p-(carbo-2′-ethylhexyl-1′-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, ethylhexyltriazone, avobenzone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, benzotriazoles, triazines, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-dimethylpentyl)-2(1H)-pyridone, 2-aminoethanol, zinc pyrithion, and salicylic acid. 
     
     
         25 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 23 , wherein said active substance is selected from fragrances and aromas originating from plant starting material of the group consisting of lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, geranium, patchouli, petit grain, anis, coriander, caraway, juniper, bergamot, lemon, orange, mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, angelica, costus, ins, calmus, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedar wood, rosewood, tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme, spruce, fir, pine, dwarf-pine, galvanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, and opoponax. 
     
     
         26 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 23 , wherein said active substance is selected from fragrances and aromas originating from animal raw material of the group consisting of ambergris, musk, civet, and castoreum. 
     
     
         27 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 23 , wherein said active substance is selected from the group isoeugenol, vanillin, hydroxycitronellal, citronellol, geranyl acetate, ionones and methylionones. 
     
     
         28 . The cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical rinse-off formulation of  claim 23 , wherein said active substance is present in an amount from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight.