Polyamino acid derivatives and use thereof in compositions for treating keratin fibers

Abstract

The invention concerns the use in a cosmetic composition of at least a poly-aminoacid of general formula (1) in which X is —O—, —S— or —NR 3 ; R represents in particular a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical; R 2 represents in particular a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted alkyl radical; R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical; R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or a radical such as NH 2 , OH, SH, —CHOHCH 3 , —CONH 2 ; n is a number greater than 1 such that the poly-aminoacid derivative molecular weight ranges between 200 and 200000. The invention also concerns the use of said derivatives for keratinous fibre strengthening and care.

1 - 27 . (canceled) 
   
   
       28 . A method for strengthening keratin fibers, comprising applying to said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition comprising at least one polyamino acid of formula (I): 
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
     
     wherein
 X is chosen from —O—, —S— and —NR 5  —; 
 R 1  is chosen from:
 (i) linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 1 -C 40  alkyl groups, optionally substituted with at least one substituent chosen from a hydroxyl group and 
 
 
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
       
         
           wherein said alkyl groups are optionally interrupted with at least one hetero atom, and 
           r′ and r″, which are identical or different, are each chosen from a hydrogen atom and C 1 -C 6  alkyl groups; and 
         
       
     
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
     
     wherein s is 0 to 4;
 R 2  is chosen from a hydrogen atom, C 1 -C 8  alkyl groups, a —CH 2 C 6 H 5  group, a —CH 2 C 6 H 5  pOH group, wherein pOH is para-OH, a —CH 2 OH group, a —CHOH—CH 3  group and-(CH 2 ) t -NH 2  groups, wherein t is chosen from 3, 4 and 5; 
 R 3  and R 5  which may be identical or different, are each chosen from a hydrogen atom and C 1 -C 6  alkyl groups; 
 R 4  is chosen from a hydrogen atom, NH 2 , OH, SH, 
 —CHOHCH 3 , —CON H 2 , 
 
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
     
     —C 6 H 5  and —C 6 H5 pOH, wherein pOH is para-OH; and
 n is an average number greater than 1 such that the molecular weight of the polyamino acid of formula (I) ranges from 200 to 200,000, wherein the n repeating units may be identical or different; 
 
     or a salt of said polyamino acid, 
     with the proviso that if X is NH, R 2  is H, and R 3  is CH 3 , then R 1  is not C 15 H 31 —CH(OH)—CH(CH 2 OH) and R 1  is not a C 8   - C 24  alkyl group. 
   
   
       29 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition comprises said at least one polyamino acid in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. 
   
   
       30 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition comprises said at least one polyamino acid in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 
   
   
       31 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition is in the form of a shampoo, said cosmetic composition further comprising a cosmetic vehicle chosen from aqueous solutions and aqueous-alcoholic solutions. 
   
   
       32 . The method according to  claim 31 , wherein said shampoo further comprises at least one surfactant in an amount from 0.01% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the shampoo. 
   
   
       33 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition is in the form of a mousse, said cosmetic composition further comprising a cosmetic vehicle chosen from a fatty phase and aqueous-alcoholic solutions. 
   
   
       34 . The method according to  claim 33 , wherein said mousse further comprises at least one foaming agent and at least one propellant. 
   
   
       35 . The method according to  claim 34 , wherein said at least one foaming agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the mousse. 
   
   
       36 . The method according to  claim 34 , wherein said at least one propellant is present in a proportion ranging from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the mousse. 
   
   
       37 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a fatty phase present in an amount ranging from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 
   
   
       38 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a fatty phase present in an amount ranging from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 
   
   
       39 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition further comprises at least one emulsifier present in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 
   
   
       40 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition further comprises at least one emulsifier present in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 
   
   
       41 . The method according to  claim 38 , wherein said oil-in-water emulsion is present in the form of a microemulsion or gel, the said fatty phase comprising at least one mineral oil. 
   
   
       42 . The method according to  claim 41 , wherein said oil-in-water emulsion is present in the form of a gel and further wherein said at least one mineral oil is present in an amount ranging from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the gel composition. 
   
   
       43 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition is in the form of a lotion comprising a cosmetic vehicle chosen from aqueous and aqueous-alcoholic solutions. 
   
   
       44 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition is in the form of a lacquer comprising a cosmetic vehicle chosen from alcohols and aqueous-alcoholic solutions. 
   
   
       45 . The method according to  claim 44 , wherein said lacquer further comprises at least one film-forming resin, at least one plasticizer and at least one propellant. 
   
   
       46 . The method according to  claim 45 , wherein said at least one film-forming resin is present in an amount from 3% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the lacquer. 
   
   
       47 . The method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition further contains at least one conventional ingredient chosen from softeners, fragrances, plant and animal extracts, ceramides, silicones, sunscreens, dyes, antimicrobial agents, vitamins, preserving agents, sequestering agents, and pH regulators. 
   
   
       48 . A method for strengthening keratin fibers comprising applying a composition to said fibers and optionally rinsing said keratin fibers, wherein said composition comprises:
 at least one polyamino acid of of formula (I):   
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
     
     wherein
 X is chosen from —O—, —S— and —NR5—; 
 R 1  is chosen from:
 (i) linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C 1 -C 40  alkyl groups, optionally substituted with at least one substituent chosen from a hydroxyl group and 
 
 
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
       
         
           wherein said alkyl groups are optionally interrupted with at least one hetero atom, and 
           r′ and r″, which are identical or different, are each chosen from a hydrogen atom and C 1 -C 6  alkyl groups; and 
         
       
     
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
     
     wherein s is 0 to 4;
 R 2  is chosen from a hydrogen atom, C 1 -C 8  alkyl groups, a —CH 2 C 6 H 5  group, a —CH 2 C 6 H 5  pOH group, wherein pOH is para-OH, a —CH 2 OH group, a —CHOH—CH 3  group and-(CH 2 ) t -NH 2  groups, wherein t is chosen from 3, 4 and 5; 
 R 3  and R 5  which may be identical or different, are each chosen from a hydrogen atom and C1-C6 alkyl groups; 
 R 4  is chosen from a hydrogen atom, NH 2 , OH, SH, 
 —CHOHCH 3 , —CONH 2 , 
 
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
     
     —C 6 H 5  and —C 6 H 5  pOH, wherein pOH is para-OH; and
 n is an average number greater than 1 such that the molecular weight of the polyamino acid of formula (I) ranges from 200 to 200,000, wherein the n repeating units may be identical or different;
 or a salt of said polyamino acid, 
 with the proviso that if X is NH, R 2  is H, and R 3  is CH 3 , then R 1  is not C 15 H 31 —CH(OH)—CH(CH 2 OH) and R 1  is not a C 8 -C 24  alkyl group. 
 
 
   
   
       49 . A method according to  claim 48 , comprising rinsing and subsequently shampooing said fibers. 
   
   
       50 . A method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition further comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. 
   
   
       51 . A method according to  claim 28 , wherein said keratin fibers are hair. 
   
   
       52 . A method according to  claim 28 , wherein said cosmetic composition further comprises at least one surfactant in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 
   
   
       54 . A method according to  claim 28 , further comprising rinsing following said applying. 
   
   
       55 . A method according to  claim 28 , wherein n is an average number from 7.4 to 14.2, X is —NH—, R 2  is H, R 3  is —CH 3  , and R 1  is 
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
     
   
   
       56 . A method according to  claim 28 , wherein n is an average number from 7.4 to 14, X is —NH—, R 2  is H, R 3  is —CH 3  , and R 1  is 
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
     
   
   
       57 . A method according to  claim 28 , wherein n is an average number from 7.2 to 12.5, R 1 =C 16 H 33 , X=—NH—, R 2 =H, and R 3 =—CH 3 . 
   
   
       58 . A method according to  claim 28 , wherein n is an average number from 7.4 to 13.2, R 1 =C 8 H 17 -CH=CH—C 8 H 16 , X=—NH—, R 2 =H, and R 3 =—CH 3  . 
   
   
       59 . A method according to  claim 28 , wherein n is an average number of 12, X is —NH—, R 2  is H, R 3  is —CH 3 , and R 1  is 
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
     
   
   
       60 . A method according to  claim 28 , wherein X is —NH—, R 2  is H, R 3  is —CH 3 , n is an average number of 12, and R 1  is 
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
     
   
   
       61 . A method according to  claim 28 , wherein X is —NH—, R 2  is H, R 3  is —CH 3 , n is an average number of 13, and R 1  is 
     
       
         
         
             
             
         
       
     
   
   
       62 . A method according to  claim 28 , wherein X is —NH—, R 2  is H, R 3  is —CH 3 , n is an average number of 12, and R 1  is 
                       
. 
   
   
       63 . A method according to  claim 28 , wherein said at least one heteroatom is chosen from nitrogen atoms, oxygen atoms, and silicon atoms. 
   
   
       64 . A method according to  claim 47 , wherein said at least one heteroatom is chosen from nitrogen atoms, oxygen atoms, and silicon atoms.