Anhydrous cosmetic makeup composition containing a fatty phase and a cosmetic treatment process using the composition

Abstract

An anhydrous cosmetic makeup composition contains in addition to a fatty phase formed from oils, fatty bodies and surfactants, and optionally waxes, a vesicular lipidic phase that contains at least one ionic or nonionic amphiphilic lipid and optionally additives. The anhydrous composition also preferably contains at least one cosmetically and/or dermopharmaceutically active material. In the presence of an aqueous phase these compositions release vesicles of the vesicular lipidic phase and potentialize the activity of the cosmetically and/or dermopharmaceutically active material of the composition.

1 - 125 . (Canceled).  
     
     
         126 . An anhydrous lipstick composition comprising 
 (a) a fatty phase consisting of at least one wax which is not capable of forming vesicles, and,    optionally, at least one oil, at least one pigment, at least one filler, and/or at least one dye; and    (b) a provesicular phase;    said provesicular phase being present in said lipstick composition in an amount of from 0.1 to 30 percent by weight    said provesicular phase containing at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material,    said provesicular phase optionally containing at least one additive to improve vesicle stability and permeability upon vesicle formation,    said provesicular phase comprising at least one amphiphilic lipid capable of forming vesicles on contact with water;    said anhydrous lipstick composition being prepared by separately mixing the materials constituting the fatty phase and the materials constituting the provesicular lipid phase and then mixing the resulting two phases until a homogenous preparation is obtained.    
     
     
         127 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of claims  126  wherein said amphiphilic lipid is an ionic amphiphilic lipid or a nonionic amphiphilic lipid or mixtures thereof.  
     
     
         128 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of claims  126  comprising a lamellar phase resulting from the mixture of said provesicular phase and said at least one water-soluble cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material.  
     
     
         129 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 126  wherein said provesicular lipidic phase is present in an amount of 1 to 20 percent by weight.  
     
     
         130 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 126  wherein said provesicular lipidic phase is present in an amount of 10 to 30 percent by weight.  
     
     
         131 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 126  wherein said at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material comprises 0-50 percent of the provesicular phase and said amphiphilic lipid comprises 47.5-60 percent of the provesicular lipidic phase.  
     
     
         132 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 126  wherein said provesicular lipidic phase is present in an amount of 5 to 15 percent by weight, said at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material comprises 0-50 percent of the provesicular phase and said amphiphilic lipid comprises 47.5-60 percent of the provesicular lipidic phase.  
     
     
         133 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 126  wherein said at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material is glycerol, sorbitol, a polyol, a vitamin, or mixtures thereof.  
     
     
         134 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 128  wherein said at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material is glycerol, sorbitol, a polyol, a vitamin, or mixtures thereof.  
     
     
         134 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 128  wherein said amphiphilic lipid is an ionic amphiphilic lipid or a nonionic amphiphilic lipid or mixtures thereof.  
     
     
         135 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 134  wherein said amphiphilic lipid is a nonionic amphiphilic lipid.  
     
     
         136 . An anhydrous lipstick composition comprising 
 (a) a fatty phase consisting of at least one wax which is not capable of forming vesicles, and,    optionally at least one pigment, at least one filler and/or at least one dye; and    (b) a provesicular phase;    said provesicular phase being present in said lipstick composition in an amount of from 0.1 to 30 percent by weight,    said provesicular phase contains at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material,    said provesicular phase optionally containing at least one additive to improve vesicle stability and permeability upon vesicle formation,    said provesicular phase comprising at least one amphiphilic lipid capable of forming vesicles on contact with water;    said anhydrous lipstick composition being prepared by separately mixing the materials constituting the fatty phase and the materials constituting the provesicular lipid phase and then mixing the resulting two phases until a homogenous preparation is obtained.    
     
     
         137 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 129  wherein said at least one oil or at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material is present in an amount of 54.8 to 73.8 percent by weight of said lipstick composition.  
     
     
         138 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 126  wherein said at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl palmitate, lanolin oil, and octyl palmitate.  
     
     
         139 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 137  wherein said at least one oil is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl palmitate, lanolin oil, and octyl palmitate.  
     
     
         140 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 126  wherein said provesicular phase is present in said composition in an amount of from 5-15 percent by weight and said wax is present in said composition in an amount of from 14.5 to 16.2 percent by weight.  
     
     
         141 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 127  wherein said provesicular phase is present in said composition in an amount of from 5-15 percent by weight and said wax is present in said composition in an amount of from 14.5 to 16.2 percent by weight  
     
     
         142 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 140  wherein said provesicular phase is present in said composition in an amount of from 5-15 percent by weight and said wax is present in said composition in an amount of from 14.5 to 16.2 percent by weight, said wax being selected from microcrystalline waxes and/or synthetic waxes.  
     
     
         143 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 141  wherein said provesicular phase is present in said composition in an amount of from 5-15 percent by weight and said wax is present in said composition in an amount of from 14.5 to 16.2 percent by weight, said wax being selected from microcrystalline waxes and/or synthetic waxes.  
     
     
         144 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 126  wherein said wax is selected from paraffin waxes, petrolatum waxes, ozokerite, montan wax, a beeswax, spermaceti, candelilla wax, synthetic waxes, microcrystalline waxes and/or mixtures thereof.  
     
     
         145 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 142  wherein said wax is a microcrystalline wax or mixtures thereof.  
     
     
         146 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 143  wherein said wax is a microcrystalline wax or mixtures thereof.  
     
     
         147 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 144  wherein said wax is selected from paraffin waxes, ozokerite, a beeswax, candelilla wax, synthetic waxes, microcrystalline waxes and/or mixtures thereof.  
     
     
         148 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 147  wherein said wax is a mixture of a paraffin wax, ozokerite wax, candelilla wax, and a microcrystalline waxes.  
     
     
         149 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 130  wherein said composition comprises at least one pigment and/or at least one dye.  
     
     
         150 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 126  wherein said amphiphilic lipid is a nonionic amphiphilic lipid.  
     
     
         151 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 150  wherein said amphiphilic lipid is a nonionic amphiphilic lipid of formula (V).  
     
     
         152 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 149  wherein said amphiphilic lipid is a nonionic amphiphilic lipid of formula (V).  
     
     
         153 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 126  wherein said additive is selected from the group consisting of a long chain alcohol or diol; a quaternary ammonium compound; a hydroxyalkylamine; a polyoxyethylenated fatty amine; a long chain aminoalcohol ester or a salt thereof or a quaternary ammonium derivative thereof; a phosphoric ester of a fatty alcohol in free or neutralized form; an alkyl sulfate and an ionic derivative of a sterol or polymer.  
     
     
         154 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 127  wherein said additive is selected from the group consisting of a long chain alcohol or diol; a quaternary ammonium compound; a hydroxyalkylamine; a polyoxyethylenated fatty amine; a long chain aminoalcohol ester or a salt thereof or a quaternary ammonium derivative thereof; a phosphoric ester of a fatty alcohol in free or neutralized form; an alkyl sulfate and an ionic derivative of a sterol or polymer.  
     
     
         155 . An anhydrous lipstick composition of  claim 154  wherein said additive is present in an amount of from 2.6-7.8 percent by weight.  
     
     
         156 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 153  wherein said at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material is present in said composition in an amount of from 5-15 percent by weight and said provesicular phase is present in an amount of from 5-15% by weight of said composition.  
     
     
         157 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 154  wherein said at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material is present in said composition in an amount of from 5-15 percent by weight and said provesicular phase is present in an amount of from 5-15 percent by weight of said composition.  
     
     
         158 . An anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 157  wherein said provesicular phase contains at least one additive to improve vesicle stability and permeability upon vesicle formation.  
     
     
         159 . A process for preparing an anhydrous lipstick composition according to  claim 126 , said process comprising the steps of: 
 (a) preparing a mixture of a provesicular phase consisting essentially of: 
 (i) at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material, and  
 (ii) a provesicular lipid phase containing at least one anionic amphiphilic lipid of formula (I) and/or a nonionic amphiphilic lipid selected from the following group: (1) a linear or branched polyglycerolated derivative having the formula (II), (2) a linear or branched polyglycerol ether having two fatty chains, (3) a polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol, (4) a polyoxyethylenated sterol or phytosterol, (5) a polyol ether, (6) a polyol ester oxyethylenated or not, (7) a natural or synthetic glycolipid, (8) a polyglycerolated .alpha.-diol, (9) a hydroxyamide having the formula R7CHOHCH(N(CO)(R8)H)COA, and (10) an ether or ester having the formula (IV); and  
   (b) mixing the resulting two phases, until a homogeneous preparation is obtained.    
     
     
         160 . An anhydrous lipstick composition comprising a fatty phase consisting of at least one wax which is not capable of forming vesicles, 
 at least one cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical active material, a mixture of inonic and nonionic amphiphilic lipids and at least one additive to improve vesicle stability and permeability of vesicle formation.