Cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of a dispersion of an oily phase and an aqueos phase, stabilized with cubic gel particles

Abstract

W/O or O/W stable dispersions are formed by mixing an oily phase and an aqueous phase when the dispersion is stabilized with cubic gel particles formed by the combination of two amphiphilic compounds, one of the amphiphilic compounds being capable of forming a lamellar phase in the presence of water, and the other being capable of forming an inverse hexagonal phase in the presence of water.

We claim:  
     
         1 . A composition comprising: 
 an aqueous phase;    an oily phase;    at least one first amphiphilic compound capable of forming a lamellar phase in the presence of water; and    at least one second amphiphilic compound capable of forming an inverse hexagonal phase in the presence of water;    wherein said first amphiphilic compound and said second amphiphilic compound form cubic gel particles when mixed together in the presence of water.    
     
     
         2 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said first amphiphilic compound is a diglycerol monoester.  
     
     
         3 . The composition of  claim 2 , wherein said first amphiphilic compound is selected from the group consisting of diglyceryl isostearate, diglyceryl monooleate and mixtures thereof.  
     
     
         4 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said second amphiphilic compound comprises at least one member selected from the group consisting of diglycerol monoesters, diglycerol diesters, diglycerol triesters, aminopolyol carbamates, and mixtures thereof.  
     
     
         5 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said second amphiphilic compound comprises at least one member selected from the group consisting of diglyceryl 2-decyltetradecanoate, diglyceryl dioleate, diglyceryl trioleate, 3-N-(2-decyltetradecyloxycarbonyl) amino-1,2-propanediol and N-2-dodecylhexadecyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine.  
     
     
         6 . The composition of  claim 1 , comprising a mixture of said first amphiphilic compound and said second amphiphilic compound, wherein said first amphiphilic compound comprises 10-90 wt. % of said mixture and said second amphiphilic compound comprises 10-90 wt. % of said mixture.  
     
     
         7 . The composition of  claim 6 , wherein said mixture is selected from the group consisting of 55-75 wt. % diglyceryl isostearate and 25-45 wt. % diglyceryl 2-decyltetradecanoate; 30-65 wt. % diglyceryl isostearate and 35-70 wt. % diglyceryl di-/trioleate; 75-85 wt. % diglyceryl isostearate and 15-25 wt. % 3-N-(2-decyltetradecyloxycarbonyl)amino-1,2-propanediol; 55-75 wt. % diglyceryl isostearate and 25-45 wt. % N-2-dodecylhexadecyloxycarbonyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine; and 15-50 wt. % diglyceryl monooleate and 50-85 wt. % diglyceryl di-/trioleate.  
     
     
         8 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said first amphiphilic compound and said second amphiphilic compound together constitute 0.1-15 wt. % of the total weight of the composition.  
     
     
         9 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein a weight ratio of said cubic gel particles to said oily phase is in the range of 0.02/1 to 1/1.  
     
     
         10 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said oily phase is 2 to 40 wt. % of the total weight of said composition.  
     
     
         11 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said cubic gel particles have a size ranging from 0.05 μm to 1 μm.  
     
     
         12 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, said oily phase comprising dispersed droplets, said droplets ranging in size from 0.1 to 10 μm.  
     
     
         13 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said composition is a water-in-oil emulsion.  
     
     
         14 . The composition of  claim 1 , further comprising a surfactant that is water-soluble at room temperature; 
 wherein said surfactant contains at least one alkyl group, and each said alkyl group is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and each said alkyl group contains 8-22 carbon atoms.    
     
     
         15 . The composition of  claim 14 , wherein said surfactant comprises at least one member selected from the group consisting of: 
 (i) alkyl or alkenyl ethers or esters of a polyol;    (ii) N-acyl amino acids and derivatives thereof, as well as peptides N-acylated with an alkyl or alkenyl radical, and the salts thereof;    (iii) alkyl or alkenyl ether or ester sulphates, derivatives thereof and salts thereof;    (iv) polyoxyethylenated fatty alkyl or alkenyl ethers or esters;    (v) polyoxyethylenated alkyl- or alkenylcarboxylic acids and salts thereof;    (vi) N-alkyl or alkenyl betaines;    (vii) alkyl- or alkenyltrimethylammonium and salts thereof; and said alkyl and alkenyl groups contain 8-22 carbon atoms.    
     
     
         16 . The composition of  claim 1 , further comprising at least one water-insoluble ionic amphiphilic lipid.  
     
     
         17 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said oily phase comprises at least one oil selected from the group consisting of oils derived from a plants or animals, mineral oils and a synthetic oils.  
     
     
         18 . The composition of  claim 1 , wherein said cubic gel particles contain at least one active principle, said active principle comprising at least one member selected from the group consisting of antioxidants, anti-free-radical agents, complexing agents, chelating agents, hydrating and wetting agents, UV screening agents, keratolytic agents, tanning accelerators, depigmenting agents, dyestuffs, self-tanning agents, liporegulators, anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle agents, anti-inflammatory agents and cicatrizing agents, corticoids, antibacterial and antifungal agents, insect repellents, deodorants, anti-dandruff agents, agents for preventing hair loss, hair dyes, reducing agents for permanent-waving operations, and skin and hair conditioners.  
     
     
         19 . The composition of  claim 1 , further comprising at least one gelling agent.  
     
     
         20 . The composition of  claim 19 , wherein said gelling agent comprises at least on member of the group consisting of cellulose derivatives, algal derivatives, natural gums and synthetic polymers.  
     
     
         21 . A process for treating skin, keratin fibers, or mucous membranes, comprising: 
 applying the composition of  claim 1  to said skin, said keratin fibers, or said mucous membranes.